Prudent Prepping: What to Do When Things Turn Ugly

The dust has settled and the First 72 Hours have passed. Follow along as I build a long term plan via Prudent Prepping.

Given the current political climate, now seems to be a good time to do a review of what to do and how to act if I'm caught up in a 'disturbance.'

I wrote about this last November, right before the polls closed. Things have not changed enough for me to feel safe in the areas I drive, but I do have a much better feel for how I can get through the places I work and back home.

All those points still apply:

• Plan alternate routes
• Have places to stay
• Don't be afraid to turn back at the first sign of trouble. 

What still needs to be covered is...

What to Do If Accidentally Caught in a Protest

First of all, don't be where protests are planned to happen. The protests where the most damage has occurred have all had official permits, issued well in advance. The Public Notice periods usually last for weeks, so there isn't much of a surprise when and where the demonstrations start.

The Most Important Rule: Don't Get Caught In A Riot
Seriously, stay away.

When things get crazy, the police aren't going to care that you just left a birthday party or had to work late. They will have a difficult enough time picking out the rioters from the regular protesters and those who are just there by mistake, so be careful with what you do and how you act. During a riot, you are all potentially dangerous in the eyes of the police. When the the order to break it up and break heads comes, it doesn’t matter who you are or what you are doing there in the first place.

If you have not intended to participate in the riot (which I hope was the plan):

• Do not interact with anyone. 
• Don't look at anyone.
• Try not to have any physical contact with those around you while you walk out. 
• Do not become a target or get noticed.
• Just keep moving.

Getting Out
I'm old enough to have been around the riots in Berkeley and Oakland CA in the late 60's and 70's. (Yes I'm really that old.) I can say from first hand experience that old-style tear gas is no fun, and I was only getting a very diluted whiff from two blocks away from the canisters. When things go 'non-linear' it is best to be already on the way to safety. How do you do that?

• Start walking and don't stop. 
• Don't run. That will draw attention to you, both from the cops and those around you. 
• Look for the edge of the crowd and make your way there.
• If there is a store you can hide in, do that while you figure out an escape route. 
• Don't pick a high value target as your hideout! That Starbucks might seem inviting, but recent history says that is a poor choice. 
• Get to the edge of the crowd, but don't try to walk against the flow - that could get you knocked down. Travel at a diagonal to the direction the crowd is going until you get out of the main body, hopefully well away from the agitators and potential violence. 
• If the crowd is running, that is a bad sign that trouble is right behind. This is about the only time running might be advised, since you don't want to be on the tail end of the crowd and therefore the first to see what caused them to start running!
• Most importantly, stay calm and work you way out of trouble.

The Takeaway

• Plan ahead. No one wants to use their spare tire, but everyone should have one.
• Know what to do if things go bad.
• Stay calm, don't rush, and walk your way to safety.

If you plan on buying anything through Amazon, please consider using our referral link. When you do, a portion of the sale comes back here to help keep this site running!

If you have comments, suggestions or corrections, please post them so we all can learn. And remember, Some Is Always Better Than None!

NOTE: All items tested were purchased by me. No products have been loaned in exchange for a favorable review. Any items sent to me for T&E will be listed as such. Suck it Feds.

Guest Post: Edible Insects

by Almo Gregor

Almo Gregor is a firearm enthusiast and avid hunter. Outdoors activities like hunting and shooting were a big part of his childhood, and he continues with these traditions in his personal and professional life, passing the knowledge to others. Almo is also an editor for Outdoor Empire.

You may notice when watching survival shows or reading survival articles that there is a huge focus on food. Some are for entertainment purposes; it is more engaging to watch a person hunt a wild pig with a spear than to watch them find a clean water source. However, some of that focus is legitimate because when your body goes too long without food, it starts to eat itself as an energy supply.

This starts with the fat reserves and moves on to muscle mass. Within a few days, you start feeling weak and clumsy. Then the body starts attacking organ tissue, including brain matter. Your body starts to hurt all over, you become confused, and memory loss is quite common. All of these side effects of hunger can greatly diminish your ability to survive. When you cannot remember how to find your way back to camp, or you decide to take your chances on eating a poisonous plant, the results can mean death.

So what's the most efficient way of getting food?

• Hunting burns a lot of calories, can be dangerous, and has very low rates of success. 
• Trapping allows you to set a trap line and just spend a few minutes each day checking that line. The odds of success are not huge, but at least you are not spending all day tromping through the woods.
• Fishing is often a good option for collecting protein, but it can mean getting into the water and that is not a risk I will take in many environments. 
• That leaves gathering, which has always been primitive man's preferred method of finding food. 

The toughest part about gathering food is finding the nutrients that your body needs the most. With some basic knowledge of plants in your area, you can find plenty of leafy greens, root veggies, nuts, and berries to fill your belly. The problem is finding the proteins and fats that your body needs to survive. Most plants found in the wild have very small amounts of calories, protein, and fats. Foods like fruit, berries, and nuts can help offset this, but most people need a larger source of protein.

Insects can be the answer.

Introduction to Eating Insects
While this idea takes a period of adjustment for some people, keep in mind that most of the earth’s population eats insects. Insects are seen on every continent including Antarctica. It is estimated that there are three billion insects for every one person on our planet, so they are a food source that cannot be ignored. There are roughly thirty million species of insects that have been classified, and roughly 1900 of those can be eaten by humans.

During my last survival challenge, I brought two of my nephews (Jay and Dre) with me. They are 10 and 11 years old, and are a bit more open minded than most of the adults that I know. I wanted to give them exposure to different food sources while in the wilderness, so I brought along pemmican and hard tack so they could try some preserved survival foods. We caught a small bass in our gill net and we found a small turtle, so we already had some protein.

But I wanted them to become open to gathering as well. I found a few large black ants and popped them in my mouth. The boys seemed disgusted, but I explained that this variety of ant tasted a bit like Sweet Tarts candy. Jay was eager to try them out and agreed with me, on the taste but Dre was more hesitant. I finally got them both eating insects and felt like we were making progress.

General Rules
When you decide to start trying out some insects, be aware that there are general rules for which ones are safe. You should always know the specific insects found in your area, as the species found can vary greatly from one area to another. However, following these rules in any environment can help keep you from getting sick.

Avoid Bright Colors
Bright colors on an insect such as red, orange, yellow, and blue are a warning. These colors are there to stand out in nature and warn animals that they are off limits. Eating insects with these colors is a good way to ingest toxins that can make you sick. Stick to insects that blend in with brown and green colors.

Avoid Fuzzy Insects
When you see lots of hairs or spines on an insect, they are often there to distribute toxins. They are also an obvious warning to other animals to stay away.

Avoid Foul Smells
You may not realize it, but your sense of smell is designed to keep you from getting sick. As with most cases in nature, it is a good idea to avoid anything that has a foul smell, as this usually indicates bacteria or toxins of some kind. Do not eat any insect that has a foul smell.

Avoid Flies and Mosquitoes
Any insects that spend time around stagnant water or feces should be avoided. Insects like flies and mosquitoes carry diseases that can kill a human, so avoid them at all costs.

Avoid Slow-moving Insects in the Open
If an insect is hiding or flies away as soon as you come close, they are probably safe to eat.
However, insects that are poisonous know that they are poisonous and do not have to flee. They can walk slowly wherever they want to go and know that most animals will stay away.

Remove Stingers
Bees, wasps, and even scorpions are okay to eat, but only after the stinger is removed.

Cook Your Insects
Cooking insects kills any bacteria or parasites that could make you sick, so if you have the ability, do so. Certain insects like grasshoppers can give you parasites if not gutted and cooked.

Soak Worms Before Eating
You can consume underground creatures such as grub worms and earth worms, but their digestive systems are full of dirt. Soak them in water overnight to purge their system before eating.

Specific Critters
There are certain edible insects and other critters that can be found in most of the world. Here are some that you are likely to find anywhere.

Ants

There are numerous species of ants, and all are edible. You can break open an ant hill, or shove a stick into the hill and eat the ants off the stick.  

Bees and Wasps

These are both edible if the stinger is removed. Many cultures roast adult bees, and their larvae are delicious.

Butterflies and Moths

They can be eaten as adults or as caterpillars - but avoid caterpillars that are red, yellow, or orange!

Centipedes

They have a nasty bite when alive, so cooked is better. They can get to be very large and are eaten as street food in China. Remove the head before eating.

Make sure you know the difference between centipedes and millipedes, because millipedes are poisonous.

Cicadas

They are not around every year, but on the years they hatch, they are best when still young and soft.

Roaches

Contrary to popular belief, most roaches in nature are clean insects and are fine to eat... but avoid any found in urban settings.

Crickets

There are companies which cook crickets, grinds them into flour, and makes energy bars out of them. Crickets are eaten all around the world, and are one of the most popular edible bugs.

Earthworms and Grubs

These are high in protein and iron.

June Bugs 

These have some size to them, and both the adults and larvae can be eaten.

Mealworms 

I have seen these sold in roadside stands on the west coast. They are roasted and then tossed in spices to flavor them. I tried the BBQ ones; they were pretty good.

Pill Bugs 

These are also known as "Roly Polys" and are closely related to shrimp.

Grasshoppers

These can contain parasites, so pull off the head and the guts that come with it, as well as the wings and legs. Once cooked, they are a good source of protein and calcium.

Scorpions 

Be careful catching these guys - some are deadly - but they are edible once you remove the stinger. 

Slugs

It is common to find slugs in gardens. They carry parasites and also sometimes eat plants that are poisonous to humans, so they must be gutted and cooked.

Snails

Considered a delicacy in French cooking, they always seem to be cooked in white wine and butter.  I have eaten escargot on a few occasions, first trying them in Zurich, Switzerland, and have since ordered them whenever they are on the menu. They need to be gutted as well. 

Tarantula

Most people just eat the legs, but the whole spider is edible. They get to be very large so they can make a good meal. Be careful of their urticating hairs, so cook them before eating.

Termites

These are typically eaten raw. Like ants, you can break into a hill or you can put a stick in there and fish them out. Very high in protein.

In Conclusion
When you are literally starving and need calories and protein to keep going, do not forget about insects. However, I suggest you get over any apprehension before your life depends on it.

The next time you go hiking or camping, find some edible insects and cook them with your meal. Try to get your family involved, too! It will make life so much easier if you are ever in a situation when these critters become a primary food source.

The Argument for Chocolate

I swear, as I write this I can actually hear the readers asking “This is about prepping, not some frou-frou Cosmo article. Why are you bringing up chocolate?”

Well, I have several good reasons. Hear me out.

Argument 1: Macronutrients

Chocolate generally contains a lot of “instant on” energy in the form of carbs and fats, which may be necessary in an emergency. Calories are needed in general if you have to hike out of a disaster, and having calorie-dense foods is important. Fats are important for a number of other reasons, and (for myself at least) one of the most important factors in a disaster is being able to take medication without getting sick - ibuprofin, for example, causes less stomach irritation when consumed with fats and other lipids.

Argument 2: Micronutrients
One cup of milk chocolate chips (such as in trail mix) contains 13 grams of protein, 26% of your daily magnesium intake, and 21% of your daily iron intake, all of which are used in abundance if you are in a physically stressful situation such as bugging out. In addition to that, chocolate contains vitamins B12 and B6, which are energy transport molecules that allow more efficient use of the caloric reserves already inside you. Things like 31% of your daily minimum calcium needs and 17% of your potassium are simply a bonus, since lacking either of those can cause muscle cramping.

Argument 3: Emotional
Chocolate is fun. It tastes good, it packs an emotional punch, it makes a useful trade good, and in a pinch it can keep children quiet. It crosses cultures, nations, and language, and is enjoyed the world around. Chocolate can provide an immense emotional boost to those that consume it, allowing them to continue just a little longer, be just a little nicer, and keep up just for a bit more, be they a border guard who you need to be just a little bit more friendly,  or you when you're just having a hard day,

Types of Chocolate and their Benefits
Once you've decided to keep chocolate in your preparations, you'll find that you face three primary issues: choosing the type of chocolate, acquiring the chocolate, and storing it.

Milk chocolate is the most commonly consumed chocolate in the US. It is higher in calcium, protein and B-12 (an energy transport molecule, often used in energy drinks) than dark chocolate. It comes in a massive variety of forms, from chips to candy bars, and is often easy and fairly inexpensive to purchase right after major holidays (such as Christmas) as long as you aren't picky about quality. It makes an excellent trade good since everyone is used to it, and most people enjoy it in trail mixes, bar form, or “Kisses” (a small individually wrapped chocolate candy).

Dark chocolate has more carbohydrates (sugars, or instant fuel) than milk chocolate does. It also has more iron and magnesium, which are both used by the body during exercise such as extended hiking or weightlifting. It comes in almost as many forms as milk chocolate does, and is almost as available in the US. It is not as popular as milk chocolate, but because many people are quite fond of it, it can still be used as a trade good. It makes a better cooking chocolate for many dishes, partially because there are fewer competing flavors than milk chocolate, and can be substituted for milk chocolate in cooking by addition of milk products, such as canned milk or powdered milk. Dark chocolate is also useful for those who are lactose intolerant or have milk protein allergy, since it can often be acquired without any milk products in it.

White chocolate is not the same kind of chocolate as milk or dark chocolate. It is usually made from cocoa butter, sugar, and milk solids, and the taste is quite different from milk or dark chocolate, with a “lighter” flavor. It is actually higher in calcium than milk chocolate, as well as vitamins B-6 and B-12, and slightly higher in fat, but it also lacks theobromine (a caffeine-like chemical that most chocolate contains). It is available in much more limited forms than either milk or dark chocolate, but it is still usually available in grocery stores. It is much less popular than milk or dark chocolate, and so makes a poorer trade good, but because of its makeup it can be more readily used as a sweetener for hot drinks than some other forms. It can also be used as a substitute for some people who are allergic to dark chocolate, as they may not be allergic to the proteins in the white chocolate.

(A note from the author: I have found that people who do not like dark or white chocolate will often enjoy taking one piece of dark chocolate and one piece of white chocolate and eating them both at once, giving a flavor similar to but not the same as milk chocolate).

Purchasing Chocolate
Most people reading this will simply go out and purchase chocolate bars at their local grocery store. There is nothing wrong with this. Chocolate with stuff in it tends to be in either bar or “lump” form. Often the contents are fruit or nuts, but there are several popular candies with wafers in them.

The nutritional breakdown will change according to what is in the chocolate, as will the storage and usage conditions. Chocolate-covered almonds are fairly popular, and contain a lot of protein and calcium compared to most other types of chocolate. Peanut M&M’s are protein heavy and designed to be more shelf-stable than other forms of chocolate. If you decide to go with this form of chocolate, your individual tastes and needs will heavily dictate what is best for you.

Baked chocolate products (brownies, cookies etc.) are commonly available, and are often in shelf-stable individual packaging. These will usually have a lot of flour and sugar added, so they are high in carbohydrates, but are therefore a poor choice for diabetics and similar. They are however useful for people with small children since they are less messy (not mess-free, sadly) than other forms, such as bar chocolate.

(There is a planned upcoming blog post on how to make your own shelf-stable chocolate products.)

Hot chocolate gets its own category because it is the only shelf-stable form of chocolate drink I could find that did not weigh a lot for the amount consumed. Hot chocolate is easily obtainable from individual packets to  bulk containers and everything in between. It can be used for making treats on the road, bribes, trade goods, and a number of other options. It is typically a powder, but there are also solid blocks of it you can purchase, often sold as “Mexican hot chocolate”.

Nutella (and other chocolate spreads) are surprisingly hardy on the road, making them very nice for longer term preps. They come in shelf-stable long term packaging, and name brands (such as Nutella and Jif Chocolate Hazelnut Spread) come in small containers that will fit into jacket pockets. They tend to go well with all sorts of things, and can make a dandy improvised dessert on their own. They can often be purchased in individual servings, and spread well with plastic utensils. The biggest downside is the potential mess, which is especially an issue with children.

There are also many other forms of chocolate for anyone who wants them, such as UHT chocolate milk (a milk chocolate that has been stabilized with special packaging and high heat), chocolate dust coated almonds, baking chocolate, and even freeze dried ice cream. They all come with advantages and disadvantages.

Once you have decided on what type, remember to add it to your shopping list. Since chocolate (depending upon type and storage conditions) stays good for five years or longer, you should wait until it is on sale after a major holiday in order to save on the purchase price.

Storing Chocolate
That said, there are a lot of other options that you should be considering. What are the storage conditions you have? Is the chocolate going to live on top of a refrigerator (typically slightly warmer than surrounding environment), or on a shelf, or in a cool, dry place? All of these storage conditions effect what kind of chocolate will store well.

For warmer conditions, you may consider something like M&Ms which were originally designed for use by troops in wartime conditions so that they would have comfort food on hand without special storage. For cooler conditions (most of the northeastern US or Canada), you may want larger chunks such as whole chocolate bars or leftover chocolate from holidays such as chocolate Santas or rabbits.

If you are like me, and find yourself tempted to simply snack on it, I find that a zip tie on the bag will keep me from eating it out of boredom. I can still break it by hand, but it takes extra effort. When I can, I vacuum seal the bags.

Bloom/Temper
Please note that chocolate can form a whitish coating under certain circumstances, otherwise known as “bloom”. This does not mean the chocolate has gone bad! If the chocolate is not off in smell or taste, it is probably fine.

Bloom is often the result of moisture in the atmosphere or a slightly heightened temperature. This can also effect “temper”, or the hardening process the chocolate undergoes. Though the texture can be poor, a melted chocolate bar that has been re-hardened is just fine to eat, and can often be salvaged for use in cooking and drinks.

Gun Blog Variety Podcast #156 - Will Shooting Gun Games Lead Sean to be Slain Upon the Public Thoroughfare?

"Despise not the racketeer. Instead, despise his sport."

• USCCA held its first ever PolymerPalooza, a unique and fun shooting event! Beth talks about some of their sponsors and products, and what she did there.
• A man bit and partially severed another man’s nipple. How does that happen? Sean digs in to discover what sort of person would act like this.
• Barron is on assignment and will return soon.
• We’ve all had that neighbor who’s not quite there. In fact, we’ve seen whole movies that revolve around the 'crazy neighbor' dynamic. But how do you deal with them? Miguel gives us some practical tips borne from 20 years experience with the crazy lady next door.
• Our Special Guest this week is author and firearms instructor Grant Cunningham. Grant answers the important question: Will competition shooting get you killed on the streets?
• Tiffany is on assignment and will return soon.
• Friend of the show Amy asks, "I drive long distances in hot weather in an older car. What preps should I include for hot weather vehicle survival?" Erin's answer involves cold packs. 
• NPR interviews the President of the Women’s March to talk about the NRA and its Dana Loesch video, and their bias is showing.  Weer’d takes them on.
• And our Plug of the Week is for the MAG-20  Armed Citizen's Rules of Engagement class in Matthews, NC.

Thank you for downloading, listening, and subscribing. You are subscribed, right? We are available on iTunes, Stitcher Radio, and Google Play Music!

Listen to the podcast here.

Read the show notes here.

Thanks to LuckyGunner and Remington for their sponsorship, and a special thanks to Firearms Policy Coalition for their support.

Blue Collar Prepping Transcript -

Hot Weather Car Survival

Listener Amy writes in with these timely questions: How should I modify my car prep kit for hot weather? What's the best/safest way to store water in that scenario? I drive 45 miles each way to work, in a fairly unreliable car, so getting stuck is more of a "when" and not an "if."

This is a great topic, because while I’ve addressed cold weather survival in a car back way in episode 15, I haven’t done anything specific on car-based heat survival - which is odd, considering that I live in Florida.

The problem with giving advice on heat survival is that in my experience, it has a lot more “Well, it depends” factors than cold weather. For example, regardless of if it’s 30 degrees or 30 below, snowing or not, blowing or not, you know that you need to have an outer waterproof shell, an inner insulating layer, avoid sweating, and stay out of the wind; everything else is just a matter of degree.

But hot weather forces you to ask questions like:

• Is it a humid heat or a dry heat? 
• How hot does it get?
• Do you get a lot of reflected light due to terrain (like glare off a desert or water), or is it absorbed by vegetation or dark soil?
• Are you going to be surviving in the shade, or out in the sunlight?

Plus there are the general questions of “Are you planning on waiting for rescue, or is this an "Ah crap, I gotta hike out of here" kind of situation?” and “Have you any health problems?” that I ask of anyone who comes to me for advice.

Here are Amy’s answers:

• Humid. Gawd-awful humid. My poor curly hair...well, I just HATE summer.
• Highs in the upper 80s/low 90s usually, late July we can see higher with sickening heat indexes. 
• Not much reflected light...most is absorbed by the crops. Which is pretty much all the terrain in my area. 
• It depends on where in my route I'm stuck. I probably wouldn't even call it stuck if my car died in town at either end, so we'll go with wait.
• I'm that person who brings a separate list of medications to doctor appts and writes, "see attached." Soooo....asthma, insulin resistance, some random but serious allergies, chronic migraines, ADHD, social anxiety, OCD...blah, blah, blah. So, a mixture of some physical illnesses that could go downhill quickly in the heat with some mental illnesses that, while controlled well with medication, could make an emergency situation feel or appear (and, therefore, become) more desperate or crippling than necessary. I wear a medical ID bracelet, carry necessary meds with me, and keep extra epi-pens in my car.

So, first off: Good job on being prepared with medication and epi-pens! Now my advice is going to come with a few assumptions:

• I assume you already have things like a first aid kit, battery backup for your cell phone, tools for basic car repair, etc.
• I assume you have a reliable way to call for help and you don’t travel through dead zones. 

With those in mind, here’s what I would suggest you add to your car:

A wide-brimmed hat to keep the sun off your face and neck. The one I’ve linked in the show notes is a khaki boonie hat with detachable flaps for your face and neck to prevent sunburn.

Speaking of sunburn, carry the highest SPF sunblock you have.

At least one gallon of water, preferably more. The human body needs half a gallon of water a day, but that doesn’t take strenuous activity or dehydration into account. I’d buy plastic gallon jugs at the store and remove them at the beginning of winter (you don’t want them to freeze, burst the plastic, then thaw and leak everywhere). Make sure you keep them covered, or in the trunk, because water exposed to sunlight can start to grow algae. 

If the water does start to go bad, you can still use it for things like wiping your body down or pouring on an overheated engine. A thick washcloth will help with all of that.

Wiping sweat off your body with a wet washcloth is a good way to feel cool for a little bit, but it doesn’t last. For a longer-term solution, get some chemical cold-packs and keep them with your first-aid supplies. Not only can you use them to prevent swelling, but a cold pack on your neck, between your thighs or under your armpits can make you feel a lot better. You can get a 24-pack of them from Amazon with Prime shipping for $14.50.

Just in case you don’t have a space blanket in your preps, get one. Yes, most people use them to stay warm, but a reflective surface can help keep you cool by reflecting the heat away from you.

If you have to stay in the car for shelter -- and if you do, I assume you’ve rolled down the windows -- the windshield can be covered with a commercial sunshade, which usually costs between 8 and 15 dollars.

I also suggest the longest shovel you can fit in the car and can comfortably use. Don’t use a folding shovel unless you have no other choice; you can get plenty of nice 27-inch shovels at the hardware store if space is an issue, but get a longer one if you can. You can use this shovel for a variety of tasks, but the two that I’m thinking of are “digging your tires out if they get stuck” and “Digging a trench to lie down in because that will be cooler than inside your car.”

A waterproof tarp with a reflective side will also be useful; not only can you use it as a sun shade, if you do decide to dig a shelter it can be used (reflective side down) to keep the dirt and bugs and yuck off you.

And, of course, ways to tie all this down. A 100-foot hank of paracord and a roll or two of duct tape will help immensely!

Finally, have a map of the area, the more detailed the better. If you know how far it is to the nearest aid station, that will do a lot for your peace of mind, and it will help you give navigation assistance to whomever is coming to help you.

• Boonie hat with detachable neck and face flap - http://amzn.to/2vThbM9
• Dynarex Instant Cold Pack, 5 Inches x 9 Inches, 24-Count - http://amzn.to/2vqIISc
• Space Blanket - http://amzn.to/2vqrdkN
• Reflective Car Sunshade - http://amzn.to/2vnLTLR

Be Frugal With Your Space

Happy Forgetful Frugal Friday.

Prepping for everyday emergencies can be overwhelming and too easy to get carried away with. Less is more, my friends. So today's video isn't about being frugal with your money or your time, but rather with your space.

Traumapacks.com no longer exists, so here's a link to a similar product from an industry leader.

A Different Kind of Cold

While researching the various systems in my RV, I managed to find an installation manual for the refrigerator and it emphasized the differences between a typical household refrigerator and the kind you'll find in an RV. Those of you who have no interest in getting an RV may find some of those differences useful if you're looking for a refrigerator/freezer for a remote cabin or other “off-grid” living quarters.

Most RV refrigerators will run on either 120VAC power or propane (LP), while a few models like mine will add 12VDC as an option. It may sound strange, but they actually cool the inside of the refrigerator by heating up a “boiler” using a propane flame or an electrical heating element. The method of cooling is called “single pressure absorbtion refrigeration” (SPAR) instead of the conventional“vapor compression” method (VC)used in air conditioners and household refrigerators. Here are a few of the differences:

A conventional VC system uses a compressor/condenser unit to turn gaseous Freon (a generic name for a family of fluorocarbons) into a liquid, then pumps the liquid through an expansion valve which causes it to turn back into a vapor. The change from liquid to vapor is known as a “phase change” and requires quite a bit of heat to accomplish. The liquid gets that needed heat by pulling it out of the inside of the refrigerator, cooling the contents. The hot vapor is then routed back to the compressor, which further heats it as it compresses it back into a liquid, and finally to the condenser where the excess heat is exhausted to the outside air.

A SPAR unit uses two gasses (usually hydrogen and ammonia) and a liquid (water) that absorbs one of the gasses, all kept at roughly the same pressure. The ammonia, in liquid form, absorbs heat from the inside of the refrigerator and changes phase to a gas. That gas is absorbed by the water, which is then heated in a small “boiler” to drive it back out of solution. The gaseous ammonia condenses back to liquid form in a condenser and flows back to the heat exchanger inside the refrigerator. The hydrogen serves as a carrier for the ammonia and eliminates the need for a mechanical pump to move the liquid ammonia. SPAR systems have no moving parts, so they will last a long time. There is no compressor, and the condenser is a lot smaller, but in return efficiency takes a dive; SPAR units are only about a third as efficient as VC units, which is why SPAR systems are rare in houses today. 

My grandpa used to buy Servel refrigerators that ran on kerosene, back in the 1930s and 40s. I've heard that they would run on as little as a quart a day. You can still find them for sale on eBay and Craigslist, but they don't meet all of the current safety regulations and the safety nannies are trying to get them off of the market. Servel was the brand name used by Dometic, which is the major maker of SPAR systems in the world, for their household appliances. They still make them, but they are all propane-fired now. A full-sized refrigerator will burn about a pound of propane each day, so a grill-sized 20 pound cylinder would last about two weeks (they never fill cylinders more than 85% full [17 gallons] for safety reasons).

The VC system uses an electrically driven compressor, which requires a big surge of power to start. The SPAR system will have a control board and ignition coil that require electricity, but most of that is 12VDC. RV systems generally have a 120VAC heating coil to replace the propane burner when you are hooked up to the grid or running a generator, mine also has a 12VDC heating coil as an option, but it is not rated for the full cooling capacity and the manual advises using the DC option for no more than 6 hours. Electric heating elements are not efficient, and I avoid them wherever possible.

VC system have a compressor, which is a sealed unit with moving parts inside. There is no maintenance, when it dies it has to be replaced and that usually costs more than a new refrigerator would. Compressors can be noisy when they run, whereas a SPAR system is almost silent (unless you're using a generator to power it).

Cost can be an issue. Since SPAR units are targeted at the RV market, their production is nowhere near that of VC units. Economy of scale knocks the price of VC units down to half or a third of a comparable SPAR unit. SPAR units also tend to be smaller, somewhere between a dorm fridge and a house fridge. The smaller size is a plus for me, it means that the refrigerator will get cleaned out more often and there's less of a chance of leftovers getting lost in the back of a shelf.

If you're on a budget and still trying to put together a bug-out location or a bug-out vehicle with cold food storage, keep an eye out for people scrapping or parting out an older RV. It's hard to kill something with no moving parts, and replacement circuit boards are still being produced for a lot of the older models, so a used RV fridge might fill a niche if you have medication that needs to be kept cold or just want to enjoy a cold beer (or have ice cubes in your lemonade) as you watch the world fall apart around you.

Prudent Prepping: Re-Reading Cody Lundin

The dust has settled and the First 72 Hours have passed. Follow along as I build a long term plan via Prudent Prepping.

I've run out of E-books to read, so I grabbed a 'dead tree' book for my lunch companion. On the top of my stack was one of my favorites, When All Hell Breaks Loose by Cody Lundin. Re-reading the book reminded me there are a couple things still missing from my preps.

The Three Basics

http://amzn.to/2visfki

In his book, Lundin mentions several things about food that I read but didn't really catch the first several times through. Cody Lundin specifically talked about 'carbs, protein and fat' more than once in his Food chapter, along with several other mentions in different places. I do have carbs covered with supplies of pasta and crackers and protein with canned chicken, but I was lacking in the fat portion. The canned chicken and tuna I have in the Buckets of Holding (and Get Home Bag) are packed in water, which isn't bad in itself, but for disaster prep water-packed isn't the best choice.

I recently added canned chicken to my stores, rotating some old cans to my pantry shelf and giving the rest to my local Food Bank, and with my budget I can't just buy something to replace the chicken right away. What I have to do is add something fatty to the mix, bit by bit. So far, the best and easiest way to get some good fats is through oil, and the way I plan to do it is by adding sardines in olive oil to my supplies. Costco has 12 can cases for almost $24, but I can do better on price by shopping at my local discount grocery store where single cans at the outlet are $1.69 each ($20.28 for 12). Granted, the Costco brand and the outlet are both imported, but I'm betting in a blind taste test by hungry people that both will taste just fine! Another point in favor of  canned sardines is that the cans are much easier to open than my canned chicken.

Now some people don't like sardines, and I understand the fish breath after you eat them can be gross, but I put this into the same category as garlic: Once everyone has some, no one can tell the difference.

As usual, a few cans a week will be going into my gear until the buckets are well supplied.

Stored Water In Jugs
Do you know the difference between crazy and eccentric? Rich people are eccentric!

If you can get past some of Cody's eccentricities, there are some very good tips on surviving any disaster. One thing he has no problem with is algae in water, either in bulk or his personal water bottles. I like my water clear, so my nalgene bottles get washed regularly and I add a very small amount of chlorine bleach to my stored water. I dump the 6 - 7 gallon jugs every six months, even though I have them stored indoors in my closet. Each time I change the water I taste it to see if there is any flavor or odd smell, and there has been nothing other than a very faint 'stale' taste. I haven't ever tasted bleach or seen evidence of anything growing in the jugs, and don't expect anything with my storage conditions.

Cody recommends 3 oz. of plain, unscented chlorine bleach per 1,000 gallons, so 7 gallons need just 3 drops to treat city water! If the Wild Man of the West finds that works, I'm good too, so I follow his guideline.

The Takeaway

• Re-read your resources. There could be something you've missed, like I did with the oils and fats.
• I like fresh, clear water, so the small amount of extra time to treat what I store is time well spent.

The Recap

• 5 cans of sardines in oil: $1.69 ea. at Grocery Outlet; total $8.45
• If you haven't read When All Hell Breaks Loose, I recommend it. This should be on everyone's book shelf.

If you plan on buying anything through Amazon, please consider using our referral link. When you do, a portion of the sale comes back here to help keep this site running!

If you have comments, suggestions or corrections, please post them so we all can learn. And remember, Some Is Always Better Than None!

NOTE: All items tested were purchased by me. No products have been loaned in exchange for a favorable review. Any items sent to me for T&E will be listed as such. Suck it Feds.