Prepper's Armory: Firearm Cleaning Chemicals

Solvents and lubricants are another area that can cause information overload. Everyone has their favorite, as well as a product they dislike for whatever reason. Among the commercial solvents I’ve used are Ballistol, LSA, CLP, Frog Lube, Hoppe's No.9, Outers, Sweet's 7.62, and Shooter's Choice. I’ve also used World War II/Korean War vintage US Military Surplus bore solvent. They all worked reasonably well, but as expected, they all have their pros and cons.

One of the considerations when choosing a solvent is the type of projectiles being shot. When primarily shooting lead bullets, cleaning requirements will be different than with metal jacketed or plated bullets. For the latter, eventually a solvent that can remove jacket fouling from the barrel will be needed.

A selection of solvents and lubricants

• Of the various solvents I’ve used over the years, CLP has become my go-to for maintaining my firearms. While it doesn't manage copper fouling, CLP does a good job of removing powder residue, old grease and oil, dirt, and general grime. In addition, it acts as a lubricant and, according to the literature, leaves a protective coating on the metal.
• For copper fouling I tend to rely on Sweet's 7.62. It works as advertised, so long as I remember to use a plastic or stainless steel bore brush, as it will react poorly with a bronze brush.
• Solvents used in cleaning black powder guns are generally not the same as those used to clean smokeless powder firearms. Of the products commercially available for cleaning black powder residue, I only have personal experience with Ballistol.As far as I’m aware, it’s one of the few that can be used on both black powder and smokeless powder guns. It worked quite well.

Am I claiming that any of these is the be-all end-all of cleaning fluids? Absolutely not. All I’m saying is they work well for me.

In regard to oils, both wet and dry lubricants are available and both have their place in any cleaning kit; grease, on the other hand, is less frequently used on firearms than in the past. (The M1 Garand or similar rifles are exceptions in that certain parts do require a small dab of grease; generally, LubriPlate or something similar is recommended.) This biggest difference between the two is viscosity. Oils tend to be less viscous, while grease is more so. In other words, oil has a more liquid texture, while the texture of grease is more creamy.

Climate and intended use can also have an effect on the type and quantity of gun lubricant applied.

• People who live in a hot and dry climate, like Arizona, are likely better off using a dry lubricant, as liquid oils will attract grit and the resulting slurry will act as an abrasive, quickly wearing close fitting parts.
• During winter in northern states, a light coating of oil is all that’s recommended at most, as oil thickens in the cold and may affect function. Dry lubricants are also an excellent choice for this climate as that was part of their original design criteria.
• In a hot and humid climate, a heavier application of oil may be needed as the higher temperature will cause oil to thin. This can also be a good place for some of the lighter grease options. While dry lubricants can work in these environments, traditional oils and greases are believed to give better protection against humidity-induced rust.

Keep in mind that a little lubrication can go a long way, and when in doubt, follow the manufacturer’s recommendation.