Safe Firearm Storage

Not actually Erin.

Picture by KJ Photography

& is used with permission.

Once you become a gun owner it is your moral (and in some states, legal) responsibility to store your firearms securely in order to keep curious children from finding them and to prevent thieves from stealing them. While firearm safes are expensive (costing at least $1,000) and heavy (weighing several hundred pounds), there are other options available to the budget-conscious prepper. 

Before we begin, however, an important note: any safe can be defeated given proper conditions. A small safe can be stolen and disassembled at leisure; a determined thief with plenty of time and the proper tools can cut or drill into larger safes. Therefore, in my opinion gun storage solutions should have the following qualities:

1. Affordability. It is better to have a cheap safe than no safe at all. 
2. Deterrence. Most home thefts are quick in-and-out jobs, with the thieves not wanting to risk being caught by homeowners or police. Anything which is not easily taken or defeated in a few minutes will suffice in this regard, and anything which deters a thief will prevent a child from gaining entry. 
3. Accessibility. If I hear a bump in the night, I need to be able to get to my home defense firearm quickly and reliably. 
4. Storage. Since we are storing firearms, it is better to get a safe which stores more of them. 

You will note that I didn't mention protection against fire. While I'm sure some of you will disagree, I feel that fire rating is more hype than substance. Sure, the flames may not penetrate, but how hot will the interior get? House fires burn at over 1,000 degrees F, which is more than hot enough to melt polymer frames and ruin the tempers of metals. Fire resistance also adds to the cost (and weight) of safes, which runs counter to the principle of quality #1. 

To that end, I recommend the concept of the security cabinet to budget-minded preppers: a lockable steel enclosure that is a safe in all but the most stringent definitions, and is more affordable because they can be delivered to you unassembled. This has the valuable side benefit of being able disassemble your cabinet and take it with you when you move, rather than force you to leave it behind or pay a moving company an outrageous fee to ship it. 

The following are the three security cabinets which I own and recommend.

Stack-On 8 Gun Security Cabinet

I bought this from Amazon for $90 back in 2017 and it has served me well in that time. While you could store 8 long guns in it, doing so would make them difficult to take out quickly, and rifles with optics will further complicate that procedure. It is far more suitable for storage of 4 long guns, perhaps 6 if you aren't in a hurry to get two of them. 

https://stack-on.com/product/8-gun-security-cabinet-ready-to-assemble

I have further upgraded this with the SecureIt Retrofit 2 kit, which allows me to store my optics-using firearms along the back of the cabinet rather than along the sides.

https://amzn.to/3Vqykrb

This allows me to have my bump-in-the-night guns (a 12 gauge shotgun and a pistol caliber carbine) easily accessible at a moment's notice, with the shelf used to hold ammunition and electronic hearing protection earmuffs. The door is kept unlocked with the keys in the door when I am home, and the cabinet is by my bed. When I leave the house, the cabinet is locked and my keyring comes with me. 

Stack-On Pistol/Ammo Cabinet

I was able to get this on sale for $60 a while back; the price has gone up since then. It mounts to the top of my security cabinet and is the same width and only slightly smaller in depth, adding weight and bulk to the 8 Gun as further deterrence against taking the whole thing. 

https://stack-on.com/product/compact-pistol-ammo-cabinet#specs

I use this safe to hold the pistols I want to access quickly, as well as additional ammunition. I keep it locked, with one key inside the security cabinet and the other in my Hiram, below. 

Hiram Biometric Gun Cabinet

This is a new addition which I acquired after Christmas as part of moving into my father's old bedroom. It cost $200 with $50 shipping (ugh), but it's much larger and more secure than my Stack-On 8 Gun. While this probably doesn't fit the stringent definition of a "safe", the panels are thicker and the locks more durable, so it's likely to be the closest to an actual safe that I'll ever get. 

https://amzn.to/452TGxX

What I like about this safe, in addition to being wide enough to accommodate 6 long guns (with optics) across the back and tall enough to store my Mosin-Nagant, is that its louvred back panel is compatible with the aforementioned SecureIt accessories. It can also be unlocked with biometrics, a keypad code, or a concealed key lock. It's also worth noting that both the Stack-On 8 Gun and the Hiram come with the ability to be bolted to walls and/or floors for extra security. 

I use this safe to store the rifles I don't need in a hurry, and when I go out of town I'll put the guns in the Stack-On in there for extra security. I put my spare keys to the Stack-Ons in here, hanging on a spare peg. 

While none of these cabinets are "proper" safes, I was able to securely store my firearms against theft and damage for $400, which is less than the price of a new handgun and much, much less than the cost of a $1,000+ safe. 

Prudent Prepping: Battery Storage

The dust has settled and the First 72 Hours have passed. Follow along as I build a long term plan via Prudent Prepping. 

Due to Real Life interfering with my spare time, I had a longer than anticipated break from Blue Collar Prepping. Things have calmed down and I expect to be contributing on a regular schedule. What's going on? Keeping my disposable batteries organized.

While I do have several flashlights that have rechargeable batteries, there are still reasons for having standard alkaline cells at home. I keep them around for standard uses in remotes like TV, stereo or garage openers. I also have AA and AAA batteries in my various bags, along with small, cheap flashlights to use and, if the need arises, to give away. To keep them organized in a reasonable manner and not rolling around in a drawer, I bought several things.

https://amzn.to/3iaLfrJ

Battery Organizer Storage Box

From the Amazon ad:

• Home Essential Battery Organizer: Rechargeable battery organizer can hold 54 batteries with a battery checker, with this box there is no longer to worry about how to organize messy batteries.
• For More Type Batteries - It can hold 24*AA, 30*AAA, total 54 batteries, perfect for Energizer Alkaline Batteries, ACDelco, Panasonic, Duracell batteries.
• Messy Terminator: This battery case neatly holds the batteries snugly in place within the foam pre-cut slots and keeps the contact ends from contacting each other, you don’t need to worry about that this foam will deform, Great way to organize your batteries easy for you to find whatever battery you looking for quickly.
• Where is The Advantage: It is made of high quality plastic, more resistant and crashworthiness than acrylic, removable soft foam with pre-cut slots, easy for storing batteries, with clear design make it easy to see what you need, the most important, Having a lid that securely locks closed allows us to store the container flat or upright also attach with a clip convenient for hanging on wall.

The foam in the box has die cut spots for the batteries, but the 'plugs' are not removed, possibly because the time involved would be too costly. Regardless, the foam is dense enough that batteries don't move when inserted. 

Now that I have bulk battery storage sorted, what about carrying batteries in smaller, useable quantities? To do that, I needed to find a way to box the batteries before placing them in a ziploc bag and then into my bags. To do that, I bought an old favorite that our esteemed Editrix pointed me towards several years ago.

https://amzn.to/3i9pUPz

 

AA/AAA 4 Cell Battery Case/Holder

From the Amazon ad:

• Package included:4 pcs of battery cases
• Convenient and intuitive to use,can combine in row
• Holds either 4 AA or 4 AAA rechargeable batteries
• Colors: Clear, Pink , Blue, Green
• Batteries are not included.

I've used these for longer than I can remember for small rechargeable Lithium Ion batteries (123 size) and now all the time to replace the now-discontinued cardboard box battery packages. Since these are not water resistant, let alone waterproof, ziploc bags are being used again. Putting them in a plastic case obviously makes the batteries more expensive, but I don't like the idea of letting AA cells rolling around in a baggie, even if I rubber band everything into a compacted shape. I like the ease of storing the bulk batteries and the peace of mind in having solid cases for the smaller quantities I carry.

Recap and Takeaway

• One Battery Storage Box purchased from Amazon: $11.99 with Prime.
• Pro: Solid and secure battery storage
• Con: Not water resistant due to no gasket in the lid, but the box does seem to latch securely enough to keep dust and dirt out.
• One set of Lovelybird AA/AAA storage boxes from Amazon: $6.99 with Prime.
• Pro: solid, secure box that fit the batteries I use
• Con: If these were water-resistant it would be better but the price obviously would be much higher. Other than that, I have no complaint. 

* * *

Just a reminder: if you plan on buying anything through Amazon, please consider using our referral link. When you do, a portion of the sale comes back here to help keep this site running!

If you have comments, suggestions or corrections, please post them so we all can learn. And remember, Some Is Always Better Than None!

NOTE: All items tested were purchased by me. No products have been loaned in exchange for a favorable review. Any items sent to me for T&E will be listed as such. Suck it Feds.

Protective Cases Addendum

Last week I covered some basic plastic cases for protecting your valuable and somewhat fragile gear. One of our regular readers suggested another source, caseclub.com, and I'm still working my way through their site to see what they have to offer. The prices seem to be a bit high, but they offer a huge variety of cases from several different makers and custom-cut foam inserts.

The custom-cut foam is interesting because it gives us a way to repurpose old cases and containers, as well as a way to repair an “Oops” if you messed up while customizing a new case. Older cases and containers pop up in thrift stores and yard sales, usually without the original contents. If the case is still in good shape but the foam is cut out in a useless pattern, you can often pick them up very cheap. Having a source of new pluck and pull foam will let you put that case back to work. Amazon also sells pluck and pull foam sheets in a variety of sizes.

Another way the custom-cut foam can come in handy is in the making of camouflaged storage. You can find miniature safes disguised as common household items like a can of shaving cream, a jar of peanut butter, or a hard-cover book but you can probably find something around your home that you could convert. A hard-shell lunchbox and the ubiquitous cookie tin (aka Schrödinger's sewing box -- it's both cookies and sewing supplies until you open it) both come to mind, so look around and see what you can find. Using a chunk of custom foam will hold your valuables more securely and keep them from rattling around if moved.

Editor's Note: I added this because I thought it was funny. It wasn't originally part of Tim's article.

I'm looking into converting some of my surplus ammo cans into storage cases for a few delicate electronic tools. It's hard to beat the tried and true M2A1 .50 cal ammo cans, as they've been around for years and are still being used by the military. I've tested a few, the longest of which was leaving one filled with miscellaneous ammunition outside for over a year. It survived being buried in a few feet of snow, drenched with a total of over two feet of rain, sub-zero and above 100°F temperatures, and a few kicks and drops when it got in the way without losing its integrity. The ammunition was just as dry and clean as when I put it in the can, and it all functioned flawlessly. The standard M2A1 is 11x5.5x7 inches, so finding foam to fit inside isn't hard. I'm still looking at the options and trying to figure out the cheapest supplier.

I use a metal 40mm ammo can at work for secure storage of some nasty chemicals, as state law says I have to keep them in a locked container until I actually use them. It makes a handy transport case, and the hasp I welded on makes it secure storage. Since the flasks are a standard size, I'm trying to get the boss to pay for some foam so I can make inserts. The newer ammo cans I've seen in the surplus stores and at gun shows are trending towards hard plastic or fiberglass cases for larger ammunition. With the judicious use of a cut-off tool and a sander, these cases would make a good base for storing longer pieces of gear.

Testing of the Harbor Freight cases I bought is still under way, the larger one is currently bouncing around in the back of my pickup in a typical Iowa summer and the smaller ones are being scrutinized for compatibility with a few things. The smallest is almost too small for anything useful, and the medium may get turned into an emergency tool kit. Hand tools aren't fragile, but having what I need for common repairs all in one place and safe from the weather has been a challenge my entire life.

One of the things I didn't mention last week that I should have: since these cases are waterproof, moisture can't get out. If you put something away that is damp or wet, the moisture will stay on or around it and can cause rust or corrosion. Dry your gear before storing it or make room for dessicant inside the case.

Protective Cases on a Budget

If you have gear that you want to keep dry and unbroken, you're going to need a protective case of some sort.

Pelican has been the standard for waterproof shipping/storage containers for many years. They make them in many sizes and shapes to fit just about anything you might want to protect, but they're not cheap. Pelican cases are also made in the USA if you're trying to avoid imports. My photographer friends don't have a problem spending a couple hundred dollars on a quality case for a camera/lens set-up that cost several thousand dollars, but they can also write it off as a business expense.

Amazon has their own line of hard cases and several of the “discount” tool stores like Harbor Freight (HF) and Northern tools offer alternatives to Pelican that are a lot cheaper. As an example, I went to my nearest Harbor Freight store and bought one each of their X-small, Small, and Medium cases for what a single Medium Pelican case would have cost.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2800-weatherproof-protective-case-medium-63926.html

For storing and shipping my electronics and a few other toys, I'm happy with the quality I got from HF. Here's what you need to look for when shopping for hard cases:

Size

Most lines offer at least a small, medium and large case, with Pelican having the most variety of sizes. Your mileage may vary, but I like having cases that are uniform in size because it makes stacking them easier. If you're only going to need a few cases, shop around to find the ones that fit the tools and toys you're looking to protect.

Foam

Most of the makers are now using “Pick and Pull” foam for the bottom liner with “Egg Crate” foam on the lid. The Pick and Pull foam is about 1.5 inches thick and pre-scored (cut almost all the way through) in a roughly 0.5 inch grid. You can trace the outline of what you want to store on the foam and then remove the foam blocks to make a custom fit. It helps to make the holes slightly smaller than the object to ensure a tight fit. Several brands are using a solid foam base and two or more layers of Pick and Pull foam in their cases to allow for basic protection and more customization options.

IP Rating

I think I mentioned IP Rating when I wrote a review of my new cell phone, but I'll go over it again. IP stands for Ingress (sometimes International) Protection and is a two-digit number. The first number is for dust, the second is for water, and the higher the number the better the protection. Anything with a rating of 5 or more is considered dustproof/waterproof, so look for at least that level. By the time you get a water rating of 7 it is good against full immersion A good chart for the various levels can be found here.

Pelican doesn't list their IP ratings, but most of the others are in the 55-68 range.

Just remember that waterproof means that water can't get out, either, so if you put something away wet it will sit in that moisture until you open the case and dry it out.

Material

Different manufacturers use slightly different plastics, with polypropylene being most common. Polypropylene is a good industrial plastic than melts at 266°F (130°C), so it should stand up to the heat you'll find anywhere in the world. It does get brittle at temperatures below freezing, so care must be taken in colder climates.

Pelican cases tend to have thicker walls than the cheaper models, so paying the extra money may make sense if you're protecting something really fragile and valuable. I have a friend who carries a pair of Glencairnwhiskey glasses in a small Pelican case when he goes camping, and the thin-walled crystal has survived several years of travel in that case.

Price

This is a sticky one, as some folks want to save a few bucks while others will pay a premium for a brand name and/or better protection. I fall somewhere in the middle; I will pay for better protection for the few things that are going to need it, but will put the pistols and other hardware in cheaper boxes.

Here are a few prices for similar cases listed by brand, dimensions, and price in 2019.

• Small
• Pelican 1200: 9x7x4 $55
• HF 1800: 8x6x4 $15
• Medium
• Pelican 1400: 13x11x6 $100
• HF 3800: 15x10x6 $40
• Amazon Basic: 12x11x6 $33
• Large
• Pelican 1600: 24x19x9 $200
• HF 5800: 20x11x6 $90
• Amazon Basic: 22x14x9 $125

I'm trying to get more organized in my storage, so I've been looking at a lot of cases and containers lately. Things like communications gear and some tools are going to find new homes in waterproof cases to protect them while keeping all of the cords, cables, chargers, and accessories in the same damned place. I'm not going to be five hours from home and find out that I forgot that unique cord for connecting my radio to an external antenna any more.

P.S.

Springfield, Sig and a few other gun makers are shipping a lot of their new firearms in hard-shell cases that can serve as shipping containers as well as storage boxes. They usually have foam liners that are pre-cut to hold the pistol and magazines shipped from the factory, with a little room for extras. The ability to put a lock on the case makes it a bit harder for the thieves in the back rooms of various shipping companies and airports to get to your toys. They usually have the gun maker's name embossed on the lid so they're not great for discrete shipping as the thieves will know what's in the box. While these cases offer some security and foam padding for protection against damage, they're not normally waterproof.

Cache Thoughts

When most people think of a cache, they picture a piece of plastic sewer pipe, capped on each end, that has been buried in the ground. This option may work for some folks, in some locations, but is not the only way to set up a cache.

Remember, the word “cache” comes from the French verb “cacher”, which means “to hide”. Obviously a cache must be hidden, but what other things will you need to consider when thinking about hiding supplies?

Location

Is the place you want to hide your supplies accessible year-round? Will snow or flooding cut off the routes to your cache? Weather is one of the reasons we prepare, so you'll need to take it into consideration when planning a cache. Mountain roads are hazardous in the winter even when maintained by government road crews, how do you think they'll be after TSHTF? Bridges are another possible problem, since a good portion of the bridges in the USA are old and in poor condition. Route planning is a separate issue, but something that needs to be looked at when planning a cache.

Location

Who else has access to the location of your cache? Burying anything on public land leaves it vulnerable to discovery by anyone passing through the area. While using land that is not linked to you may have OPSEC (Operational Security) value, it lowers the chances of your being able to recover your cache intact.

Hollywood seems to like the idea of using a public storage unit for caching supplies- the theme pops up in several movies. While having a 10 x 15 space packed with emergency supplies sounds like a wonderful idea (if you can afford to fill it), it gets expensive to pay the monthly rent and you would have no control over the security of it. Most of the storage units that I have seen or helped empty were full of household items and didn't contain much of value, to the looting of public storage wouldn't be likely until well after TSHTF.

Caching things at a friend's place will provide some security and ease of recovery, but everyone in the friend's household as well as any guests will potentially have access to your supplies. Fire, theft, divorce, and other calamities could also destroy your supplies.

Location

Can you retrieve or monitor your cache easily?

The first step in retrieving a cache is finding it. Do you remember exactly where you buried it? Did you draw a map (if you do, use a code or other way to encrypt the data) of its location? Landmarks change rapidly- buildings are torn down, trees are cut, fences are removed, bridges replaced or moved, etc. so you need to have several ways of locating your cache. Geo-caching as a hobby is a good way to practice locating a hidden cache, but you'll need encrypt your GPS coordinates in some manner to prevent others from finding it. GPS is satellite-based, and is subject to government shut-down in times of emergency, so learn how to read a topo map and get the maps that cover your areas.

I live in the upper Midwest, so I have to take climate into consideration any time I think about burying something. Around here the frost line goes down about three feet during an average winter. That means that the ground freezes solid for the first three feet of digging. A wet summer followed by a colder than normal winter can drive the frost four feet deep. Without the use of industrial excavating equipment, anything buried below the frost line is going to be a chore to recover. Anything buried in the frost zone will likely “float” to the surface as the frost comes and goes over a few years or get damaged from the pressure created by the freezing water. Frost heave is capable of lifting roads and cracking concrete, so a PVC pipe isn't going to withstand it.

Contents

What you put in your cache will have some bearing on where you hide it. Anything with a shelf-life will need to be rotated out so plan on retrieving and re-hiding your cache at scheduled times. In general, the more you mess with a cache the more likely it is to be discovered by someone else. Digging leaves disturbed soil that is easy for a trained/experienced person to spot. Visitors to remote areas are noticed by locals, whether the visitors know it or not. Frequent trips to a cache site will stir the curiosity of observers and may lead to the uncovering of your cache. The best bet would be to avoid anything with a shelf-life and never visit a cache site until you need the contents, but that would mean never being certain if it was intact until you needed it.

Size

A piece of PVC pipe will hold a few day's worth of food, basic shelter, some fire-starting tools, and maybe some clothing. Common sizes of PVC are from 8-14 inches in diameter, with the smaller ones being easier to transport to your hiding spot and much easier to dig a hole for. They are also harder to find when you try to retrieve your cache. One method of hiding PVC caches is to use the same size and color as your existing house plumbing to add on “extra” drains in your home. If you have access to your plumbing (not all hidden in walls or before the walls are finished) you could place a few “spare” drain lines that would pass a quick inspection. Not many burglars are going to be cracking open sewer lines looking for valuables, but government representatives might.

Plastic 55-gallon drums will hold a lot more than a piece of sewer pipe, but are harder to transport discretely and take considerable effort to hide successfully. Most plastic drums weigh about 25 pounds empty, so carrying one on your back as you trek into the forest to your cache site is going to be the first workout. Digging the hole will be the second, and carrying all of the contents will be the third. Something this size is a candidate for storage in a friend's basement or garage rather than burial.

These are the things that go through my head when considering a possible cache, and may or may not fit your local variables. Learning how to hide things is like learning any other art, it takes practice and planning. For OPSEC reasons, I will not ask for details about anyone elses cache sites or plans. This is a prepper site and I know there are unfriendly people who scan these sites looking for targets of opportunity (mostly wannabe warlords and couch commandos) so I won't feed them intel. If you have general ideas or suggestions that fit your location, feel free to leave a comment here or on our Facebook page.

Guest Post: The Care and Feeding of Chainsaws

by Scott Bascom

Scott Bascom is a member of our Facebook Group and has written for us before.

Author's Disclaimer: this article has nothing to do with summer camps, teenagers, or campfire stories. Well, not unless you decide to make it so, but that would be none of my business... even if I do recommend a good hockey mask.

There are three major types of chainsaws: Electric, Gasoline, and
Battery-powered. Of these types, the most popular is gasoline powered, which typically use a two-stroke oil mixture.

Electric
These require less maintenance, do not require you to store any fuel, and do not have a motor that can easily go bad from having fuel sit in it. That said, they still require all of the maintenance on the chain and the blade that any other chainsaw does, and they require a power source, such as a generator or working electricity. They are also limited by extension cords.

Gasoline
The most common type, these have several disadvantages as well as advantages over electric chainsaws.

Disadvantages

• If left stored with fuel in them for long periods of time, they tend to clog up as the fuel goes bad. This means that when you pick them up to use them they are not necessarily usable, and they are much more finicky about the maintenance on the engine. 
• They require all of the maintenance of the electric chainsaw, as far as the bar and chain go. 
• They are more expensive than electric. 

Advantages

• They can have more power than electric chainsaws. 
• They tend to be more portable.
• There is a wider selection available. 
• Most people are  familiar with this type.

Battery-Powered 
These types have an honorable mention here. I don't generally recommend them, but in some very specific cases they are exactly the right thing to have. For example, if you are in a situation where you have electricity but not consistently, or if you cannot get gasoline consistently, or have to use a chainsaw up a tree and have plenty electricity but cannot handle having power cords, the battery-powered chainsaw is for you. It has most of the advantages of an electric chainsaw, such as lack of maintenance on an engine, but it has many of the disadvantages of a gas chainsaw, such as expense, and it has its own problems in battery life.

Picking a Chainsaw
My rules on picking a chainsaw are fairly simple: I decide what I am using it for, and then look for a name brand (Stihl, Husqvarna etc.) that has one that will fit my needs. I understand that not everyone can afford an expensive chainsaw, but I have learned to avoid house brands. Usually you can pick up a Poulan Pro or a Remington for around $150 that will do most jobs.

There is nothing wrong with a used chainsaw off of Craigslist; just make sure that it works when you buy it. Sometimes small engine shops will have one that was left by a customer, and will sell it for the cost of the repair.

If you buy used, make sure you can get the manual online. It will save you much grief.

Care
Most of this section will be focused on care of a gasoline chainsaw. That said, all chainsaws have several things in common:

1. All chainsaws must have the chains sharpened on a regular basis when you use them. You will usually find the sharpening interval listed in the owner's manual. 
2. Chainsaws require regular addition of bar oil, which is used to lubricate the chain as it rubs against the bar and you cut through things. You will usually find the maintenance interval for bar oil listed in the manual as well. 

Sharpening
Note: I am assuming you have a sharpening kit on hand. If you do not, you will, at minimum, need a round file to do this. Just do your best, and take it in for a professional sharpening later if you must.

1. Turn off the chain saw. Unplug it, take out the battery, etc. I know this is a hassle, but  trust me, it's preferable to hideous injury. 
2. Set the chainsaw down on a firm surface. If you have one, a workbench with a clamp is best, but not everyone has one on hand. A patch of sidewalk or driveway will do in a pinch.
3. Place the circular file in the chain guide. Both of these items should come in your sharpening kit.
4. Firmly hold the saw. Do not touch the chain itself, just the base with the handle and trigger.
5. Engage the chain brake. This will be different on every saw, but is often a lever or button that you twist.
6. Lay the circular file in the chain guide on the forward facing cutting grooves. 
7. Going from near the front tip to the handle of the file, use firm even strokes to sharpen. Usually you will only need 2-3 strokes to get to shiny metal, and that is usually enough; if there are deep gouges, it may be time to change out the chain.
8. Move back along the chain, repeating the sharpening of each cutting groove. 
9.  Unlock the chain brake as needed, and rotate the chain forward. Lock the chain brake again, and sharpen until all of the forward facing grooves are sharpened.
10. When you have done all the forward facing teeth, do the ones facing backwards, if your chain is so equipped.

Accessories
I highly recommend a carrying case with a sharpening kit, the owners manual, and if needed either a spare charger, a spare bottle of premix oil, or power cables. I also recommend a spare fuel can specifically dedicated to premixed 2-stroke fuel if you have a chainsaw that uses it. If you do this, I highly recommend that you use a fuel stabilizer that is rated for small engine use, as that will help to maintain the stability of your fuel and longevity of your tools.

If you are feeling especially rich, I also recommend a spare chain and bar. They come in very useful if you are using your chainsaw heavily during an emergency.

Storage
Remember, use common sense. Put this out of the way of small children, teenage boys, and people in hockey masks. Also, I highly recommend that you have a dedicated container for any accessories with this chainsaw.

Operation
The first thing to keep in mind with any chainsaw is that, just like any powerful tool, you need to use common sense when using it. Chainsaws are designed to cut into things, and if you're not careful this can include your limbs. Some basic safety tips:

Always wear eye protection. I know it's not all that appealing to have to remember to put on glasses every time you were use the chainsaw, but it can and will throw things into your eyes unexpectedly. The last thing you need is to have in a medical emergency while you're dealing with another disaster.

Always wear hearing protection. Even when using a chainsaw for a short period of time, remember that things can fly into your ears. Especially if you, like me, have ever accidentally cut into a wasp nest. (Running around with a wasp sting in your ear canal is one of the most unpleasant experiences during a disaster).

A good combination of eye and ear protection is a hard hat with integrated earmuffs and face shield. Not only is it all-in-one, but it also protects your head from falling debris and your face from kickbacks.

Always wear gloves. Gloves, aside from the armoring safety factor, will actually help to maintain a grip on the chainsaw when you are working for long hours and are very sweaty. I highly recommend a mechanic-style glove instead of a work-style glove, because they fit your hands better and tend to provide equivalent protection when using a chainsaw, while still allowing great flexibility and dexterity.

Always wear chainsaw chaps. There is a reason chainsaws are the weapon of choice in so many slasher movies: nothing that will do more damage faster to the human body than a chainsaw. Chainsaw Chaps are designed to clog and stop the saw before even a complete revolution of the chain, preventing damage to the leg underneath. You'll have a heck of a bruise and feel like you were kicked by a horse, but that's better than losing your leg or your life.

Remember to cut starting with the base of the blade, unless it is a specific blade, chain and saw setup designed to cut with the tip. Otherwise the it can kick and buck backwards and hit you, and that is absolutely no fun.

(As a side note, several major chainsaw brands have wonderful safety features on their saws, so that if you accidentally put your hand on it, it is far more likely to stop than to cut into you. Unfortunately, these brands are typically fairly expensive, and out of the price range of most blue-collar preppers.)

Remember to stop every 15 minutes to half an hour to check on bar oil level and the general health of the saw. If you have an inexpensive saw, you will probably need to tension it every 5 to 10 minutes of heavy use. If you tension it before you start, you should be able to go up to 15 minutes without problem, but remember that inexpensive saws have more slippage in them. There is nothing wrong with this; you just have to remember it. The bar tensioner is typically located at the back of the saw, and can usually be adjusted by hand without tools.

Finally, remember that in order for a tool to be really useful, you should practice with it before it's an emergency. I highly recommend that you go out and cut firewood or similar before you have to do so in an emergency.

Good luck, and have fun picking out a hockey mask!

Tools and Rust

Many preppers have tools and supplies cached or stored for use after TSHTF. Personally, I have a large selection of hand tools at my primary BOL, with a smaller collection at the secondary BOL, and an even smaller collection that ride in the pickup with me. Hand tools are great to have if you repair things as often as I do, and after TSHTF you won't be able to go to the store to replace that broken chair, firearm, or backpack; it will be reuse, repair, recycle instead of replace.

You'll need to know how to repair the things you use and have the tools needed to effect the repairs. Power tools are faster than hand tools, but I don't expect to have the power to run them in a crisis, so I collect hand tools.

Storing tools has a few problems, rust being the main one. Stainless steel is a wonderful invention, but there are only a few stainless alloys that are suitable for use in tools, and it is three to ten times the price of carbon steel. I'll be focusing on carbon steel for this article. 

Storage and Maintenance
On large equipment (plows, bulldozers, etc.), rust isn't much of an issue since it will be scoured away as soon as you start to use the equipment. Smaller equipment needs more TLC, and the smaller it is, the more attention you have to give it.

Larger hand tools like hammers, axes, mauls, hand saws, and shovels should be stored clean and lightly oiled. Oil evaporates over time, so you'll have to check them occasionally and re-coat them. If oil is not available, a fine coating of wax will work just as well. Long term or cached storage, where you don't have easy access to the tools, will require a coating of heavy grease or cosmoline. The goal of all of these is to keep moisture and air from getting to the metal.

Smaller hand tools like wrenches and screwdrivers need to be kept clean and dry, preferably stored in a water-tight container. A good tool box should not allow rain or spray inside once the lid is closed. Be careful buying the cheap tool boxes and look them over carefully. Dollar store plastic food containers work, as long as you keep them out of the sunlight (UV degrades the plastic rapidly). Look for pasta containers to hold your longer tools.

Cutting tools like files, rasps, and drill bits are hard to reproduce and should be treated with care. Always store them separate from each other, since hardened steel bouncing around in a drawer or tool box tends to dull itself. A layer of fabric between files is sufficient as long as it stays dry, which is why you used to see them stored rolled up in canvas “tool rolls” where each had its own pocket. Simple to make from an old pair of jeans, a tool roll will prevent damaged and lost tools.

Gripping tools like pliers, pipe wrenches, and adjustable wrenches like to rust where the moving parts meet. It's harder to clean there, and getting them oiled becomes more important.

Tiny tools like sewing needles need to be kept in water-tight containers. Rust on a needle will make it difficult to pull through fabric and they're a PITA to clean. Precision screwdrivers and other small tools are almost as bad as sewing needles.

Rust Removal

If you have a tool that is already rusty, there are ways to remove the rust and save the tool. I actually look for old tools (they havebetter steel) that have rust or grease built up on them at farm sales and antique stores. As long as the rust hasn't damaged the structural strength of the tool, I can usually get it working again. They're also cheaper than clean old tools.

Abrasives

• Sandpaper is easy to mimic using actual sand and a piece of leather.
• Placing a rusty part in a box full of sand and then shaking the box mimics the effect of a sand-blaster (just a lot slower) and is about the only way to clean chain mail and other intricate metal assemblies.
• Sand is just rocks that have beat each other to pieces. If you don't have access to sand, bashing two rocks together will produce some. It also works wonders for venting frustrations, but watch your fingers.
• Steel wool stores well as long as it is kept dry. Metal shavings from a drill, mill, or lathe will cut like the coarsest steel wool.

Cutting/Scraping

• Files are handy for sharpening cutting tools and can also be used to remove rust from surfaces. Check your files to see if they have a “safe” edge, which is an edge with no serrations. These are  handy for working on a surface without removing anything from adjacent areas.
• Scrapers work best on large, flat surfaces. I managed to resurrect a 10” table saw by scraping the rust off with a large paint scraper, followed by using the back edge of a commercial (railroad, actually) hacksaw blade which was 24 inches long. The long blade helped take down high spots and kept me from gouging the surface. The table was then coated with wax, since oil would stain any wood I was cutting.
• Using the back of one tool to clean another eliminates the need to buy/store/maintain specialized scrapers. Broken saw blades are hardened steel and make good improvised scrapers.

Chemicals

• Acids will remove rust, with the stronger acids attacking the metal as well. Use with care.
• “Naval jelly” is a chemical compound sold under various names that converts the rust to a stable compound capable of sealing out moisture and air. I've used it once or twice and it worked as advertised, but I didn't care for the appearance of the tools afterwards.
• There are a few newer chemical systems on the market, but I haven't had a chance to play with them. Check the local auto parts stores.

Protection
Once the rust is removed you need to get something on the metal as soon as possible to keep moisture and air away.

• Paint works if you have it available, but making your own paint is an extensive project that I wouldn't try without the resources of at least a small town.
• Wax is a natural product that is fairly common. Beekeepers will be very popular after TSHTF.
• Grease doesn't have to be petroleum based, but be aware that animal fats oxidize and go rancid unless they have a preservative added. Lanolin, which is the grease removed from wool, works well but has a low melting temperature. Lard and such need to be rendered down and cooked to drive out all excess water, since you're using it to keep water away.
• Vegetable oils work for coating tools, but evaporate quickly and may polymerize into thick goo if applied too liberally. Olive oil beats out corn or soybean oil for general lubrication.

Tools are handy to have for making repairs and for trade goods. For example, once the chainsaws run out of gas, those old hand saws and axes are going to be the only way to clear fallen trees and cut firewood. Learn how to use them and take care of them now, while you have the chance.

Proper Storage of Metal Objects (updated)

And by "metal objects" I mean such things as firearms, ammunition, and knives.

What brought the subject to mind was this article I ran across, where a cache of weapons -- firearms, ammo, explosives, and fuses, hidden for German spies and saboteurs behind Soviet lines -- was found in Latvia. Seventy years later and there is no rust and no corrosion; it all looks ready to use.

In their case, the weapons were properly greased up and wrapped, and everything was sealed in airtight containers. (No mention if there was any kind of desiccant included to absorb any moisture.) By keeping the air and wet outside, the inside stayed dry and clean.

So if you store things properly, they can last a long time.

What 'Proper' Storage Means Nowadays
I'd start with a 4" or 6" diameter PVC pipe, and caps. That stuff won't corrode in any reasonable situation you can think of.

1. Use standard PVC cement on one end and glue a cap on. 
2. Insert your contents. 
3. Cement the other cap. 
4. Bury it. 

You can even use a removable screw-on cap on one end if you wish; it uses an O-ring to seal against the outside, and no saw is needed to open the tube.

Storing Firearms

First you must clean them. After that, you've got choices:

• For short-term storage, or something you might have to dig up/dig out and use in short order, give them a coat of a good gun oil. 
• For long-term storage, use grease or cosmoline. Just about any quality grease should do, and bearing grease from a auto-parts store doesn't cost much. 

Then stick it in a plastic bag -- I'd suggest one of the heavier freezer/storage-types -- and squeeze out all the air you can as you seal it. For longer times, or to make absolutely sure that your gun or ammo is protected, we have a very handy item: vacuum food-storage machines and bags. This uses a heavy plastic designed to keep food from losing moisture in the freezer over long periods, and usually holds up very well. Several brands out there use either pre-made plastic bags or a roll of the material for custom sizes: you use the unit to seal one end, put your stuff inside, then vacuum out the air and seal the other end.

If you want to be double-extra sure, grease the firearm up before putting it in the bag, and add some desiccant as well before you vacuum and seal. I've not tried it with a gun or ammo, but I once took a knife blade, gave it a light coat of oil, sealed it in a bag, and buried it in the garden for (as I recall) two months. It came out with not a spot of corrosion.

Storing Ammunition

No grease or oil here! You need plastic bags and desiccant (something to absorb any moisture in the bag). There are lots of commercial products out there that work well, or you can make your own:

1. Get a piece of drywall (the stuff used in houses). 
2. Cut a 2" x 3" piece for a gallon-size bag. 
3. Clean up the edges so it doesn't shed bits. 
4. Bake it in the oven for a few hours at low heat to completely dry it out. 
5. Put in bag with ammo and seal. 

There's more information out there you can find, including this Mas Ayoob article at Backwoods Home Magazine. If you can find the physical magazine, the January/February 2009 issue has an article by a man who used PVC to hide a Mini-14, ammo, and parts for fifteen years. It worked nicely.*
Update: Thanks to a reader, said article has been found: Bury a gun and ammo for 15 years

Concealment

If you bury something of this sort, you need some kind of way to make sure you can find it again. That can be a map, GPS coordinates, things like that. Each of these has plus and minus points, and Mas addresses some of them in his article. Keep in mind that if it's easy for you to get to, then it's easy for someone else to find!

Making it harder for someone else to find your cache could be done by putting it in a place that would mess with metal-detection and ground-penetrating radar gear. One or both could really be messed with by simply burying metal in random places; people getting hits all over have to decide where to dig. I'm not really up on GPR systems, but I'm pretty sure that using one to try to find a buried gun is not a 'fly a helicopter over the area and look for hits' thing.

Make sure it's well-hidden, but not so hard to get to that you can't when you need it:

• It has to actually be hidden, whether inside a structure or buried. 
• It has to be somewhere that risk of accidental discovery is minimized. 
• It has to protect the contents from moisture and air. 
• You actually have to be able to find it again. 
• You actually have to be able to get it out. 

If you decide to bury a PVC pipe, do so vertically to minimize its signature. Dig a hole so that the PVC's top is top three feet below the surface, and make sure you give yourself plenty of room around the sides as well; as the ground settles, it'll lock the pipe tightly into place, so if you want to remove the whole thing you'll need working space around the hole -- so don't bury it in cramped quarters!

*I read the article once, and I really wish I had it now.