The Minimum Equipment Needed for Handloading

Right now I’ve got lots of crap sitting around for the purpose of "rolling my own" that I've  collected over time.  But if you cut it down to the very minimum, what do you actually need?

To load a cartridge from a fired case, you have to resize the cartridge case (it expands a bit when fired), punch out the fired primer, open up the case mouth (this is for pistol rounds only), insert a new primer, drop in a powder charge, seat a bullet, crimp the case mouth.  So which tools do you actually need for this?

Basic List:

• Loading press
• Primer tool
• Loading dies for the cartridge
• Shell holder, if not included with dies
• Powder scale
• Load data

If you go bare minimum, you can do it with this. (It’ll be slow, but it’ll work.) You need a press to hold the dies, you need the dies to process the cartridge cases, you need a scale to measure out the powder charges, you need lubricant to resize the cases (if not using carbide dies).
A loading press can be as simple as a Lee Hand Press, This set comes with the tool to put a new primer in the cartridge case, some case lube, and a funnel for pouring powder into the primed case. I’ve got one of these, and I used it for loading both rifle and pistol cartridges before I got a bench-mount press. It works. Be it noted that full-length resizing a bunch of rifle cases can give you a serious upper-body workout.

A bench-mounted press would be something like this basic Lee press*. You can bolt or clamp it to a bench or desk, and it does make it easier to do some operations.

You have to have a way to put a new primer in the case.  That's covered in this post, and some presses come with a priming arm to do this.

Dies are essential. To pick a common caliber, this set of dies for .45 ACP has four:

1. One die resizes the case and pushes out the fired primer,
2. One expands the case mouth (also called ‘belling’, it opens the mouth up so a bullet can more easily be started in; essential if you use plated or cast bullets).
3. One seats the bullet into the case.
4. One crimps the case mouth to the bullet.

I like Lee die sets because they also come with the shell holder for the press (different one for different cartridges) and most other brands do not.

Many dies for handguns come in a set of three: the resizing/depriming die, expanding die, and a seating/crimping die. Once adjusted, the last will seat the bullet and crimp the case mouth in one operation.

Die sets for rifles often come in two: resizing/depriming die and the seating/crimp die, since most jacketed rifle bullets don’t require expanding the case mouth. If you intend to use cast or plated bullets, you will have to have a die to open up the case mouth, the same as with handgun cases; these can be bought separately if the die set you get does not have one. This Lyman or this Lee are good choices.

Load data can be found online from many companies, and you can buy load manuals from many companies. They list cartridges, the bullets you can use in them, and powder types and charges that have been tested. You must have reliable information, and pay attention to it: when you pull the trigger on a cartridge, you’re starting a burn that creates pressures that can be up into 40,000 pounds per square inch in some cartridges, and all that’s happening while you’re holding onto it. You do not want surprises.

Speaking of surprises, a powder scale is essential.  There are simple balance-beam types, and there are electronic scales. Both work. You have to have one, because you have to know the weight of the powder charge you’re putting in. In the standard load data you find in this country, powder is weighed by grains, of which there are 7000 in a pound. In some pistol powders the charge can be as little as two grains; rifle cartridges can (for big ones) go up around a hundred grains. You must to be able to measure accurate charges, so there is no way around having a scale.

 Materials Needed:

• Primers
• Powder
• Bullets
• Case lubricant (if not using carbide dies)

You can't reload without actually having things to reload.

Most handgun die sets come with a carbide sizing die: there’s a ring of carbide in the die that actually does the resizing, and it’s so hard and slick that you don’t have to lube the cartridge cases.  It makes the dies a bit more expensive, but it’s worth it.  Very few rifle dies can be had in carbide, due to the shape of the case, same for some bottleneck-shaped pistol cases; those case must be lubricated before you try to resize them.  This is not optional, try it with dry cases and they will stick in the die, and that gets complicated.  Numerous choices for case lubricant are out there; two I've used and recommend are Lee and Redding.

Non-essential but Recommended:

• Loading block
• Caliper or case length gauge
• Trimmer

That non-essential loading block?  Its sole job is to hold primed cases while you put a powder charge in them.  You can buy them, or you can make your own with some suitable wood and a drill press (I’ve got a bunch of those).  With this you can measure powder charges and pour them into cases without worrying about them getting knocked over.  It also lets you hold the whole bunch in the light and look in to make sure you didn’t miss any (bad) or accidentally dump two charges in one case (very bad).  You don’t have to have one, but I recommend you do.

What about that caliper or gauge?  Well, cartridge cases stretch when fired, and it stretches more in a semi-auto firearm.  There are specifications for the minimum and maximum length of cases, and that's where either an electronic or dial caliper (yes, digital is less expensive than a dial nowadays) or case length gauge comes in.  They let you know what the exact length currently is. The gauge is handy, but a caliper will tell you the actual length, not just if it's overly long.

Trimmers come in two flavors, bench-mounted and hand-held. The Lee hand-held also need this cutter and lock-stud set which can be used on any of their gauges. Something like the Lee can be used anywhere, or you can chuck the stud into a cordless drill to power it.  The Lyman type has a universal case holder, but needs a pilot (a set comes with this one) for different cartridges.  They go by size: the '.30' pilot will work on ANY case using a .308" diameter bullet: .30 Carbine, .308, .30-06, and on and on.

With straight-wall cases such as .38 Special, .45acp, or 9mm, you may never need to trim; with rifle cartridges, especially when used in a semi-auto, sooner or later you WILL need to have some way to trim the cases.

Using It All
So, let’s say you’ve got that basic set. How does the process work? Done with that Lee hand press and .45 ACP, if you do a single cartridge beginning to end it looks like this:

1. Put the shell holder and resize/deprime die in the press and adjust the die.
2. Place a fired case in the holder.
3. Push it up into the die; this resizes the case and punches out the primer.
4. Take out the resize die, place the expanding die in, and adjust to open up the case mouth. Do so.
5. Remove that die, place the priming tool into the press, and use that to insert a new primer into the case.
6. Insert the seating die into the press.
7. Use the powder scale to weigh a powder charge, and pour it into the case.
8. Place the case into the shell holder, place the bullet in the case mouth, and work the press to seat the bullet. Use the caliper to make sure you have it seated to the correct overall length.
9. With a three-die set you then use the seat/crimp die to crimp the case mouth to the bullet, once adjusted it will both seat the bullet and crimp in one step. With a four-die set, then you change to the crimp die, adjust it and crimp the case mouth.

Doing this for each cartridge is silly, so you do it in groups:

• Deprime/resize a bunch of cases, then prime them all, expand them all. 
• Then powder charges are measured and poured in cases. 
• Place bullets in case mouth, then seat them. 
• Then crimp if using a separate crimp die. And each die will have a lock ring; once you have it adjusted to your press and that ring in place, you won't have to adjust it again. 
• The exception is the seating die -- if you use a different bullet in the future, it'll need adjustment for seating depth.

That’s your basic load set. Part II will cover some other tools that make this all a bit faster and easier.

There's also more information on reloading that you can read here and here.

*I use a lot of Lee equipment; their prices and quality are both good.

Gun Shows Are Coming!

Fall is here and winter is just around the corner. This is my favorite time of year for a lot reasons (I'm not sweating while being eaten alive by insects all of the time, mainly) but somewhere up towards the top of the list is the return of the gun shows. Around here, most of the gun shows are held during the winter months in small-town meeting halls, but some take over fairgrounds or empty stores. Some shows are put on by large event organizers and can have 400-500 tables, but the majority are run by a small local organization and take place in a VFW hall or community center.

Why do they hold the shows in the winter? I live in farm country, and if you want to sell something to a farmer, you have to wait until he gets paid. Harvest season usually runs from late September to late November around here, so most of the farmers and people who work in related industries are too busy to take time off for shopping for those three months. Once the crop is in, the farmers get their annual paycheck (think about that when you run out of money before the end of the month!) and spend most of December paying bills and budgeting for the nest year. Bank accounts are (with luck) replenished, and this is when gun shows are most likely to move inventory.

Legalities

Despite what the anti-gun folks bleat so often, there is no such thing as a “gun show loophole”; a licensed dealer has to go through the same procedures and checks at a gun show as he would if you were making a purchase at his shop, with background checks and federal forms applied at both locations. 

There is a slight chance that you may see a private individual selling a firearm, usually trading it in at a dealer's table for something “better”. If you can offer more than the dealer is willing to pay, you may be able to buy it from the individual. This is legal in most states (check your local laws -- they're too confusing for me to try to list here), and is no different than buying a firearm from a friend (also legal in most states). Be prepared to show your carry permit or purchase permit (if your state has such things) to prove you're not a felon or an undercover cop. If you're the one selling, make sure you ask for something like this to cover yourself.

Bargains
The first rule of buying anything, anywhere, is that if it seems too good to be true it probably isn't true. Most folks have a rough idea what their property is worth, so if you run across a “steal” it might not be worth even the low price. I've seen a dealer trying to sell physically broken guns at a discount (that one got tossed out of the show without a refund), and I've seen more than my fair share of cheap junk. The ones that bother me the most are the jackals that try to sell a gun made from spare parts as a collectible (Garands, Mausers, etc.) at full price. The collector's market is an area of specialized knowledge that I don't have, but I can tell when parts don't match in color or fit/finish.

Dealers know what they have to get out of their inventory to stay in business, so don't expect to find huge discounts. The rare private seller mentioned above may not ask as much for a firearm as a dealer, but but neither is he trying to stay in business.

Etiquette
Gun shows are crowded, so be respectful of the others around you.

• You're going to bump into people and have them bump into you; expect it, and don't take offense at minor contact. 
• The aisles between table are normally too narrow for three people, so don't stop and chat with a friend in the middle of an aisle. 
• I don't have an issue with the occasional wheelchair I see at local shows, but the baby strollers are generally obnoxious. My grand-kids ride on our shoulders when we take them to the gun show before they can walk; pushing a stroller through a crowd is not a good way to make friends and influence people. 
• If your urchins are uncontrollable, leave them at home. Sharp objects and fragile goods are commonly display on open tables and you are responsible for your kids' actions.

Most dealers will have signs up if they don't want you touching their wares without permission, or they will have everything in glass cases or cabled down. They do this with the smaller items to prevent theft, and they do it with the collectible items to prevent greasy fingerprints. If there is any doubt, ask before you touch.

Prices
I have been going to gun shows for a long time (close to 40 years). I have seen the influence our politicians can have on the availability (and hence the pricing) of firearms and related goods. The law of supply and demand is very strict at gun shows:

1. If there is only one dealer with a supply of powder or brass, he will increase his prices to match the demand. 
2. If there is a shortage of a particular item, expect prices to be high. 
3. If there is a glut on the market of a particular model or caliber, price will come down. 
4. The smaller dealers will generally have lower overhead (less rent on a shop, fewer employees, etc.) and thus have lower prices, but will have less inventory for you to choose from. 
5. Larger dealers can buy in bulk and get a better price from their distributors and may pass it on to you.

Negotiations are sometimes possible. I have talked a few dealers down from the amount listed on their price tags (I dislike haggling - just a personal quirk) and buying more than one item will often lead to a discount on one or more of the items. Most of the dealers are at a show to make a buck, so don't expect them to lose money on a sale just to make the sale.

If you have a smart phone, checking prices online will let you know how badly the dealers are treating people at the show. Some shows are good; others seem to attract hyenas trying to over-charge for everything. You'll figure out which is which pretty quickly if you have a way to compare pricing. Just walking through a show you'll often see the same firearm offered at different prices, so make a trip around the tables before buying anything that you don't know is a real bargain. I've seen dealers buying goods from other tables and marking up the prices to sell on their own tables, so shop around.

It looks like about three weeks until the next big gun show around here. This one is an annual event that fills an old Target store, so it's huge. There's usually a fair selection of survival gear mixed in with the guns and bullets, so I'm looking forward to going back. I'm at the point where I don't need much, but it's always nice to spend a day around like-minded people and maybe I'll see something I want to add to my collection of supplies... if the price is right.

Prudent Prepping: Driving Home During Urban Unrest

The dust has settled and the First 72 Hours have passed. Follow along as I build a long term plan via Prudent Prepping.

With the extra traveling I do for my job now, I needed do more route planning since my sales calls take me through two major cities and across a bridge every day. On top of the traffic, the possible unrest and demonstrations in the cities I cross makes knowing where to go and when to just stop and wait things out important. (I'm writing this well before the polls close in the East and Midwest and I personally believe there could be big problems if one candidate wins, but there could be problems no matter who is the winner.)

Have a Plan
I'm luckier than some of my co-workers in that I grew up here and know the freeway system well. What I don't know as well as I'd like are the surface streets and secondary routes through the areas where I work. Since I'm calling on a Big Box home improvement chain, the stores are usually located in the industrial areas of cities and sometimes well off the freeway. The neighborhoods that surround these stores are 'working class' at best. I generally know what areas to avoid but not what is the fastest way or shortest route to get me back on the road home.

I have a working radio in my truck and the two all-news stations are already programmed. My smart phone has a map app that is very good with real time traffic overlays available. I don't need a paper map, but I have the four needed to plot the way home if everything else fails. If the worst happens while I'm at work (earthquake or riots), I have enough friends to put me up. If there are problems after I leave, I may not have the luxury of getting off the freeway safely or at all.

This is where the extra planning will pay off.

Work The Plan  
When I haven't been too tired I've been driving some of the "second choice" streets the map program gives me. Several of the routes have already been eliminated due to having too many lights, being roads everyone else will try to take, or having me drive through areas even more marginal than where I work.

I try to keep in mind something a pilot friend told me years ago: "Don't let your ego get you in trouble. If you know there is weather in front of you, don't expect to get lucky and find a way through or around a storm." His advice to suck it up and turn around is what I've been trying one or two days a week by looking for a way to get off the freeway and back to a safe harbor or another, safer route home. The one and only benefit of a demonstration blocking a freeway is the fact that the demonstrators have to start walking to the freeway. These have all been newsworthy events, so this gives me and anyone listening to news a heads-up and a chance to get out of the way.

Plan For Failure 
So far (late Tuesday and Wednesday), I have missed the demonstrations that burned trash and broke windows in Oakland and injured a woman blocking a freeway. I can safely get home (once over various bridges) since I'm familiar with these cities. The big problem is still getting to these bridges.

I mentioned in this post the additional supplies in my GHB, and now I've added a wide-mouth container to the mix in case I can't get to a toilet. I do not expect to be caught in a blockade or stuck for long periods of time in my truck, but I have to be prepared.

Several people have mentioned YouTube videos showing how to get through a blocked street. No, I'm not linking them; they are easy enough to find so you don't need my help.

The important points seem to be:

1. Keep moving slowly and do not stop!
2. If blocked in, do not exit your vehicle.
3. If attacked, use the minimum amount of force to protect yourself and anyone else in your vehicle. All states recognize your right to defend yourself from attack.

The Takeaway

• If going to the same areas regularly, plan your route. Have a second, third or even a fourth way home. 
• Try out alternate streets and highways before you need them. 
• Don't be surprised if things don't work out. Plan for the worst but expect the best, that way you are never disappointed.

The Recap
Nothing was purchased this week... but if you plan on buying anything through Amazon, please consider using our referral link. When you do, a portion of the sale comes back here to help keep this site running! 

If you have comments, suggestions or corrections, please post them so we all can learn. And remember, Some Is Always Better Than None!

NOTE: All items tested were purchased by me. No products have been loaned in exchange for a favorable review. Any items sent to me for T&E will be listed as such. Suck it Feds.

Shiny, Silver, Solid: Solder

As I was writing last week's article, it struck me that there may be a number of folks who have no idea how to solder things. That's a shame, as soldering is a very useful skill and incredibly simple to learn. This week, we'll see just how simple it is.

Why

Solder creates a very strong mechanical joint between two metal pieces. While it employs heat, far less is required than for welding or brazing, meaning it is far less likely to damage tempering or hardening of metal parts. It is also far less equipment intensive.

What
Solder refers to any of a number of metal alloys, selected to give certain properties when heated and used to bond parts. No matter the alloy, some manner of flux should be used to improve flow of the solder and allow for a better, more uniform bond as it cools. Some solders contain flux in the wire, and will be marked as "flux core." Other solders require a separate flux, which for our purposes is a waxlike product that is soft and can easily be brushed or rubbed onto our work material.

A tub of flux. 

Our soldering supplies.

The piece of copper is the same size as the one I made last week's candle from, and will be made into a second candle. Although it is hard to see, I've already applied flux in this picture.

How

My workpiece is held in a bench vise, as I'll need both hands to work the solder. While the heat required is much less than welding, you still don't want to try and hold your pipe, even with a gloved hand.

This is the torch I use. This model also works quite well, and is dead easy to light. I buy my propane locally, simply to avoid shipping issues, but it can be bought online if needed.

The solder ring is clearly visible,
showing a good joint. 

As you can see, it takes less than a minute to go from first heat to completed permanent joint. Once the pipe is hot enough, the solder flows easily and seals completely. The bead that fell off happened because the pipe wasn't hot enough for the solder to flow and bond.

Making little things like this is also great practice with your gear before you need to fix something that has serious implications. With a little practice, you'll develop the skill to mend other metal pieces. This can save you time and money that would be spent on a repairman, or keep things running when a repairman isn't available. It's one of those skills that you'll never regret having in your mental toolbox.

Lokidude

Video: Aboriginal Tool Roll Review

Not actually Erin.

Picture by KJ Photography

& is used with permission.

I meant to post this video on Monday, but I got sidetracked and the video wasn't edited until Wednesday.

So I'm posting this on Thursday but backdating it to Monday, because I can.

The Apocabox Shop may be found here.

Gun Blog Variety Podcast #116 - Oh, the Places You’ll Go

With everyone "On Assignment" this week, Erin and Sean have created a fun-sized episode about why you should join the gun community and go to events. We're a unique, welcoming bunch, and it's given us so much that we want to share it with you. So get involved just by showing up and having fun!





Thank you for downloading, listening, and subscribing. You are subscribed, right? We are available on iTunes, Stitcher Radio, and now on Google Play Music!

Listen to the podcast here.

Read the show notes here. 

Thanks also to Firearms Policy Coalition for their support.

(There was no BCP segment this week, thus no transcript here.)

A Quickie Candle Lantern

These are ideal for an emergency, or for when your flashlight dies unexpectedly.

As Lokidude mentioned the other day, candles are handy.  The problem is that they spread their light all over (not always a problem), they're easy to blow out, and wind can make them hard to light.  So here's a way around that.

Find a standard coke can (this is a tall one).

Mark three lines -- one a little less than the length of the can, and one crossing it at each end.

Most drink cans are very thin aluminum, so you can push one blade of a scissors in and then cut it, or just use a sharp knife. Cut all three lines, then unfold the wings you created.

Most cans have a domed bottom, so you may need to push the center of the dome down to create a better surface for the candle to sit on.

That's it.  Insert a tealight candle, votive candle, or a short piece of a standard candle in.

You can sit it on a table, or the ground, or bend the pull-tab up and use a wire to hang it.  It'll direct the light where you want, and you can bend the wings in or out to help protect it from the wind.