Before there was paracord, the
prepper's cordage of choice, there was something even more versatile
and a lot easier to find in rural areas: baling twine and wire. These have been staples of farm ingenuity for a long time, and so their uses are impossible to fully list.
Way back in the olden days
(pre-1980), farmers had been storing hay for their livestock in
“small” rectangular bales for decades. After the hay is cut
and allowed to dry, it is picked up by a baling machine that compacts
it into a rectangle (about 14” high, 18” wide, and of various lengths between 30-60”, determined by the farmer running the baler) and ties it together with either wire or
twine.
Since farmers need to feed their animals
every day during the winter months, they were constantly opening up
bales that had been put up in storage during the summer. Opening
bales leaves two lengths of twine or wire per bale, and it starts to
pile up by mid-January. Perfect for quick repairs and fastening loose
things, frugal farmers never discarded it. Luckily, you don't have to
live on a farm to find it.
Types of Baling
Baling wire is soft steel wire,
normally around 14 gauge (Ga) diameter, ungalvanized and sold in rolls of
roughly a mile in length. Here's
one that's 14.5 Ga and 6,500 ft long. $80 for 100 pounds of steel
wire isn't a bad price, and they do deliver.
Personally, I hate wire-tied bales. The wire is small enough in diameter that it cuts
into your hands when you pick up the bales, requiring the use of
gloves, and the ungalvanized wire also rusts if left in contact with the
ground. Picking up the bottom layer of a stack was always a
challenge, as I never knew many would burst as I lifted them.
Baling twine comes in a few forms and
several sizes. The natural fibers, jute and sisal
mainly, are biodegradable and easiest on the hands. They also have a high tensile strength and tend to hold knots better than synthetic fibers. Tractor Supply Co. is a national chain of farm
supply stores, and they sell a sisal
fiber twine with a 350 pound tensile strength in a “bale” of
two rolls having a total length of 9000 feet for about $50.
The plastic fibers are better for
long-term storage and are more pest-resistant. Going back to Tractor
Supply Co., you can see there are several “weights” to choose
from. The lighter
twine, the ones with tensile strength around 100 pounds, are for
straw and grass bales that don't weight more than 40 pounds. The
heavy
twines with tensile strengths over 200 pounds are for holding the
larger round bales together.
Rolls vs. Reels
You may have noticed I used the term
“roll” of twine or wire and not “reel”. A reel of anything
comes wound around a core of some sort, while a roll doesn't have a core.
Reels feed from the outside and the loose end is always on the outer
edge, away from the center, while rolls feed from the inside. Reels
have to turn as you draw the cordage off of it, rolls don't move.
The
reasons for using rolls instead of reels have to do with how the
baling machines operate, but it makes using and storing them anywhere
other than a baler a bit of a challenge. As you use up the roll you
are pulling the twine from the center and making the whole thing
weaker. By the time you get about half way through the roll, it's not
strong enough to move without the roll collapsing. Wire is almost as
bad, with the added issue of rusting from the outside and being two or
three times as heavy. That's messy and wasteful, so here's the trick
to avoiding that problem.
- Find a clean 5-gallon bucket with a
lid. Tractors and large equipment use oil and fluids by the gallon,
so 5-gallon buckets are common. If you're working with wire, a little
leftover oil or hydraulic fluid won't hurt and may help prevent rust.
Check any local restaurant for empty buckets if you're on a budget; otherwise most of the big-box home supply stores sell them.
- Remove the lid and place the roll in
the bucket. Don't remove the wrapper if there is one, just drop it
into the bucket.
- Cut or punch a small hole in the center of the lid using a sharp knife or screwdriver. The hole should be no
bigger than the twine or only slightly bigger than the wire you're
using.
- Find the loose end of the twine or wire
in the center of the roll and feed it through the hole on the bottom
of the lid. Tie a knot or twist the wire to keep it from falling out
of the hole.
- Replace the lid on the bucket and
secure it. Most lids have tabs that will lock onto the bucket.
- If your bucket has a handle, tie or
twist the cordage around the handle so it doesn't fall back into the
bucket. I also like to tie a utility knife or wire cutter to the
handle so there's always one available.
You can use smaller variants of the bucket trick to keep thread and other small lines neater and clean. Any container that the roll, reel, or spool will fit into with a small hole to feed it through makes a world of difference.
Baling wire and duct tape have kept
more farm machinery operating than you can imagine. It's always handy
to have twine around for quick binding jobs, and buying a roll that's
over a mile long will last you years.