Lots of Knots

The other day I had to teach a young man a few knots that are used to secure things to a truck. He'd never been a Boy Scout, so his knowledge of rope and knots were limited to tying his shoes and a basic square knot, and since we work with a lot of loose items and flatbed trucks/trailers, knowing how to keep them from falling off is a good thing. Having to load up supplies and transport them is one of the steps to bugging out, so I thought our readers might like a few more knots to learn.

We've written about knots and rope before' just enter "knots" in the search bar on the upper left-hand corner to find the articles, but it's been a while. Finding a good book that teaches knots is the best (I have a couple in my library) because books are more portable and permanent than anything online, but for quick lessons or review the Internet has you covered. Waiting for a phone call and have nothing else to do? Grab a couple of short pieces of rope, twine, or thread and practice a few knots. Repetition will eventually make them something you can do without thinking. Practice makes permanent.

Learning to tie knots isn't hard, but visualizing them or articulating the process requires pictures or actual rope that you can work with. This is one of those skills that can't be easily taught through text alone. Having worked blue-collar jobs most of my life, I've only had to wear a tie for formal functions, funerals and weddings mostly. Years ago I found a website that has helped me relearn how to tie a proper tie, so I started looking for something a bit more broad in scope. The best I've found is called "Animated knots", great for short lessons on over a hundred different knots. Select a knot from the pictures or by category and the site will take you to a very simple (simple is good) page that shows a step-by-step animation of the knot, as well as a short video clip of it being tied. 

No ads or pop-ups asking for your email address, clean and simple format, and good information. This is one to add to your bookmarks list and use to learn or teach knots.

Random Knotty-ness

Before there was paracord, the prepper's cordage of choice, there was something even more versatile and a lot easier to find in rural areas: baling twine and wire. These have been staples of farm ingenuity for a long time, and so their uses are impossible to fully list.

Way back in the olden days (pre-1980), farmers had been storing hay for their livestock in “small”  rectangular bales for decades. After the hay is cut and allowed to dry, it is picked up by a baling machine that compacts it into a rectangle (about 14” high, 18” wide, and of various lengths  between 30-60”, determined by the farmer running the baler) and ties it together with either wire or twine. 

Since farmers need to feed their animals every day during the winter months, they were constantly opening up bales that had been put up in storage during the summer. Opening bales leaves two lengths of twine or wire per bale, and it starts to pile up by mid-January. Perfect for quick repairs and fastening loose things, frugal farmers never discarded it. Luckily, you don't have to live on a farm to find it.

Types of Baling

Baling wire is soft steel wire, normally around 14 gauge (Ga) diameter, ungalvanized and sold in rolls of roughly a mile in length. Here's one that's 14.5 Ga and 6,500 ft long. $80 for 100 pounds of steel wire isn't a bad price, and they do deliver. 

Personally, I hate wire-tied bales. The wire is small enough in diameter that it cuts into your hands when you pick up the bales, requiring the use of gloves, and the ungalvanized wire also rusts if left in contact with the ground. Picking up the bottom layer of a stack was always a challenge, as I never knew many would burst as I lifted them.

Baling twine comes in a few forms and several sizes. The natural fibers, jute and sisal mainly, are biodegradable and easiest on the hands. They also have a high tensile strength and tend to hold knots better than synthetic fibers. Tractor Supply Co. is a national chain of farm supply stores, and they sell a sisal fiber twine with a 350 pound tensile strength in a “bale” of two rolls having a total length of 9000 feet for about $50.

The plastic fibers are better for long-term storage and are more pest-resistant. Going back to Tractor Supply Co., you can see there are several “weights” to choose from. The lighter twine, the ones with tensile strength around 100 pounds, are for straw and grass bales that don't weight more than 40 pounds. The heavy twines with tensile strengths over 200 pounds are for holding the larger round bales together.

Rolls vs. Reels

You may have noticed I used the term “roll” of twine or wire and not “reel”. A reel of anything comes wound around a core of some sort, while a roll doesn't have a core. Reels feed from the outside and the loose end is always on the outer edge, away from the center, while rolls feed from the inside. Reels have to turn as you draw the cordage off of it, rolls don't move. 

The reasons for using rolls instead of reels have to do with how the baling machines operate, but it makes using and storing them anywhere other than a baler a bit of a challenge. As you use up the roll you are pulling the twine from the center and making the whole thing weaker. By the time you get about half way through the roll, it's not strong enough to move without the roll collapsing. Wire is almost as bad, with the added issue of rusting from the outside and being two or three times as heavy. That's messy and wasteful, so here's the trick to avoiding that problem.

1. Find a clean 5-gallon bucket with a lid. Tractors and large equipment use oil and fluids by the gallon, so 5-gallon buckets are common. If you're working with wire, a little leftover oil or hydraulic fluid won't hurt and may help prevent rust. Check any local restaurant for empty buckets if you're on a budget; otherwise most of the big-box home supply stores sell them.
2. Remove the lid and place the roll in the bucket. Don't remove the wrapper if there is one, just drop it into the bucket.
3. Cut or punch a small hole in the center of the lid using a sharp knife or screwdriver. The hole should be no bigger than the twine or only slightly bigger than the wire you're using.
4. Find the loose end of the twine or wire in the center of the roll and feed it through the hole on the bottom of the lid. Tie a knot or twist the wire to keep it from falling out of the hole.
5. Replace the lid on the bucket and secure it. Most lids have tabs that will lock onto the bucket.
6. If your bucket has a handle, tie or twist the cordage around the handle so it doesn't fall back into the bucket. I also like to tie a utility knife or wire cutter to the handle so there's always one available.

You can use smaller variants of the bucket trick to keep thread and other small lines neater and clean. Any container that the roll, reel, or spool will fit into with a small hole to feed it through makes a world of difference.

Baling wire and duct tape have kept more farm machinery operating than you can imagine. It's always handy to have twine around for quick binding jobs, and buying a roll that's over a mile long will last you years.

Prudent Prepping: Parapocalypse Cord

The dust has settled and the First 72 Hours have passed. Follow along as I build a long term plan via Prudent Prepping. 

This week I reached deep into my Bag o' Topics and couldn't even find lint. Luckily for me, our wonderful and talented Editrix bailed me out with an idea.

After talking it over with Erin, I jumped on Amazon to see if I would be able to find what I wanted and have it delivered before May. It was in fact available, and it arrived on Sunday! Due to family obligations I didn't have time to do much more than look over the material, but I did take it apart and see if what was advertised is really there. It is.

Parapocalypse Ultimate Survival Cord: 
Parachute Cord 7-Strand Core with Fire Starter Waxed Jute, 10lb Mono Fishing Line, Dyna-x, and Yellow Kevlar Cord 625lb Test

Say that three times, fast! That's as big a challenge as the Christmas Story movie Red Ryder BB Gun description.

Super Cord!

From the Amazon ad:

• Based with our 5/32in 550 Paracord with waxed jute, 10lb fishing line, Dyna-x, and Kevlar 110lb test
• Our wax coated, waterproof jute is designed to start fires in any situation, even in a downpour
• The Nano Kevlar 110lb test is great for cooking over a fire or friction sawing through materials
• Dyna-x is great for low-stretch, ultra-strong applications like snares, hoisting, or mending clothes
• The 10lb Mono-filament Fishing Line can catch fish, set traps, or suture wounds

This is only a 25' piece of paracord, with the manufacturer offering 50' and 100' lengths for comparable prices. I chose the Tan color for a pretty simple reason: in a pack, with a bunch of other stuff that's mostly black, I want to see what is there and grab it easily. Most of my gear has been black and with having to get into even my sling bag, black inside black isn't doing it for me now.

What's Inside

I was unable to take a decent picture of my sample when unraveled, so this is from the Amazon ad.

• Rope Diameter - 5/32 in / 4 mm
• Tensile Strength - 625 lbs / 283.5 kg
• Weight (oz/100ft) - 10.25 oz / 290 g
• Waxed Fire starter Tinder
• 10 LB. Monofilament Fishing Line
• 1 x 110 LB. test Nano Aramid
• 160 LB. Dyna X -
• 7 strand nylon core

from https://www.subatcina.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=58714

My intention is to cut up most of the existing cord to see how it really works, and then re-order at least one more 25' piece or a 25' and 50' for the real camping gear. I will attempt to record a video of some of the tests, if my equipment works well.

Wish me luck!

Recap And Takeaway

• I purchased one Atwood Rope MFG Paracord from Amazon for $10.99 with Prime.
• As I try to make my carried gear lighter, smaller and more compact, multi-use items that do not give up utility are high on my list.

* * *

Just a reminder: if you plan on buying anything through Amazon, please consider using our referral link. When you do, a portion of the sale comes back here to help keep this site running!

If you have comments, suggestions or corrections, please post them so we all can learn. And remember, Some Is Always Better Than None!

NOTE: All items tested were purchased by me. No products have been loaned in exchange for a favorable review. Any items sent to me for T&E will be listed as such. Suck it Feds.

Prudent Prepping: March Delirium

The dust has settled and the First 72 Hours have passed. Follow along as I build a long term plan via Prudent Prepping.

This is my first post-move blog entry, and since I’m too tired to make it into a buffet post, you get this.

I’ve uncovered some books and equipment I haven’t seen in literally years. Some of it is useful, a little bit of it is junk. Okay, more than a little of my stuff is junk, or at least items that I have no use for now. There is some monetary value to many items, however, and I’m not giving things away, but holding on until the unusually heavy rains stop so I can have a nice garage sale!

What's In The Box?
If I told you some of the things I found, you might not believe me. One of the cooler things I found in a box with my 1960’s Boy Scout manual was my Pro-Knot card with most of the knots I still use.

https://amzn.to/2TAauL3

I keep this card in my camping gear  to show those I'm out with what a proper knot for each situation should be done. It always comes up that "I learned to tie this from my Gramps" and while it is a good knot, it may not be the correct knot this time.

From the Pro-Knot Amazon page:

This six card set is easy to understand with clear illustrations for the twenty best all-purpose rope knots - see complete list of knots below. If it's on this card set, it is a proven, useful and trusted knot! These rope knots are universal for survival, boating, climbing, prepping, search and rescue, home and ranch, scouts, camping, paddle sports and any outdoor activity involving rope. There are step-by-step instructions for joining ropes together, tying rope to objects and making loops.

• Waterproof solid plastic cards with no-rust brass grommet

• 20 essential rope knots

• Size: 3½ x 2¼ x 1/8 inch, weighs less than one ounce.

• Perfect backpack, glove box, bug-out-bag or boat

 Knots include: Bowline (single best all-around knot to know), Square Knot, Water Knot (best knot for use with nylon webbing), Rolling Hitch, Clove Hitch, Sheet Bend (doubled version too), Trucker's Hitch (a must know knot), Mooring Hitch (quick release knot), Cleat Hitch (boaters must-know knot), Tautline Hitch (adjustable knot for camp guy-lines), Buntline Hitch (use for attaching rings, snaps, etc to rope), Prusik Knot, Butterfly Knot, Half Hitch, Constrictor Knot (bundle up loose items), Double Fisherman's (join two ropes), Figure Eight, Bowline on a Bight, Sheep Shank, Timber Hitch. 20 knots total.

I remember learning many of these knots in Boy Scouts, and since I don’t tie most of them regularly, the card is a really handy refresher for me. Someplace in my fishing gear (I hope) is the companion set of cards listing 20 common fishing knots.

More Reading
I mentioned this book in a post way back in 2014, and it turned up in a box with non-prepper books. It was purchased used from a local store, but is available from Amazon.

The Lost Lore of a Man's Life : Lots of Cool Stuff Guys Used to Know But Forgot About the Great Outdoors is a collection of articles from the the early 1900's that anyone from that era would more than likely know if they spent time out of doors.

https://amzn.to/2VYrgjF

"To restore men's rightful heritage, Denis Boyles and Gregg Stebben, the coauthors of A Man's Life: The Complete Instructions, have compiled a priceless treasury of forgotten lore and rustic hobbies that our forefathers possessed but that we have lost. Culled from turn-of-the-century publications and old scouting-type manuals, this guide is written in our grandfathers' language, with their sensibility and wisdom."

I am unable to take a clear picture of the Title Page, Table of Contents or the Acknowledgements which list what is included and where most of the contents originated. Seriously, this is a really fun and interesting book!


The Takeaway

• While I hate moving with a passion that can't be expressed in polite society, I'm finding things that I need and now I can dump the things I truly don't. Even if it hurts!

The Recap
Nothing was purchased for this post, but you should check out:

• Pro-Knot laminated cards: $5.95 from Amazon with Prime
• The Lost Lore Of A Man's Life: $6.99 for Kindle or $12.24 in paperback from Amazon

***

Just a reminder: if you plan on buying anything through Amazon, please consider using our referral link. When you do, a portion of the sale comes back here to help keep this site running!

If you have comments, suggestions or corrections, please post them so we all can learn. And remember, Some Is Always Better Than None!

NOTE: All items tested were purchased by me. No products have been loaned in exchange for a favorable review. Any items sent to me for T&E will be listed as such. Suck it Feds.

Knots Redux

I've previously demonstrated some basic, foundational knots. They are pretty much the building block of all rope work. However, on their own, they don't get much done. Today, I want to show you some knots that really do the work.

Bowline
A bowline is a great knot for lifting or pulling a load. I use them almost daily at work. It makes a strong loop, which will not slip under load or when tension is loosened.

1) Start with your rope in this position, with whatever you're lifting in the bottom of the bend.

2) Make a loop like this.

3) Pass your rope under, around, and back through as per the next two pictures.

4) Pull tight, and you're done.

Bowline-on-a-Bight
A bight is simply a piece of rope or cord that has been doubled back on itself. The bowline-on-a-bight is used to provide a second loop in your bowline. It can be used to lift a person, for example, with one loop under the arms and around the back, and the second loop under the thighs.

The process for tying on a bight is the same as a normal bowline, just doubled, as shown below.

Two loops shown.

Clove Hitch
Hitches are used to attach a rope to a bar, post, or other fixed item that doesn't have a hole or eyelet. The Clove hitch is probably my favorite of these. It is simple, easy to tie, and easy to remove when work is done. If you ever watch a western movie and see the cowboy tie his horse to the rail, the knot he's using is almost always a Clove. It is also commonly used to secure boats, canoes, and the like.

1) Pass your rope over the bar you're tying to.

2) Cross back over, making an X.

3) Make a third pass, under the X.

4) Pull tight.

Lashing
A lashing is not a knot, per se, but is one of the most useful things that a rope can do. There is an unending list of reasons why you may want to secure two poles together at an angle, and lashing is how that happens.

1) Start with a Clove hitch.

2) Pass your rope under the bottom bar and over the top bar as shown, pulling each pass tight. 4-6 wraps are commonly used. 2 are shown, simply for demonstration.

3) Double back against your lashing, over the bottom bar and below the upper, pulling tight. This locks in the lashing, pulling everything tight.

4) Again, use 4-6 wraps, if possible. More wraps mean a more secure lashing.

5) Finish with a second Clove hitch and pull tight.

Practice these knots, and you'll soon become an expert at holding it all together.


Lokidude

Rope Tending and Basic Knots

A few weeks back, we briefly discussed paracord . Today, I'd like to talk a bit more about cordage in general, how to dress it, and a couple of basic knots.

Cordage
Cords are composed of braided or twisted strands of either natural or synthetic material. Both types of cordage have unique properties. Natural fibers tend to be a bit more elastic and stretchy, but are also susceptible to mildew and rot. Synthetic cords are far more rot resistant, but are vulnerable to heat and have very little "give."

When cords or ropes are cut, the ends immediately begin to fray. There are a variety of ways to arrest this fray, depending on the material of the cord:

• Natural fibers must be bound or otherwise physically secured.  A few wraps of tape can accomplish this, as can a small amount of super glue. In a pinch, a simple overhand knot will stop fraying, but it makes the rope a bit harder to handle. Another clean, permanent fix is referred to as "whipping," which is the process of binding the end of a rope with thread or string, creating a strong, durable working end.

• Synthetic cords give you an additional option: they can be melted, giving a secure end that is no larger than the cord itself. Simply hold the fibers in the flame of a lighter or candle until they melt, turning them so they melt evenly. Don't handle them until they've cooled, as they will be hot and sticky, and can cause painful burns.

What it should look like when you're done.

Basic Knots

Overhand Knot

The overhand knot is the basis for the majority of more complex knots.  It is simply a loop with a single pass through, which is then pulled snug.

Lark's Head
A Lark's Head knot forms a loop at any point in a rope.  It is a very useful knot for securing all manner of things.

Start by doubling your line into a loop.

Tie an overhand knot in it and pull it snug.

The loop that forms is solid and will not slip tighter, nor will it move along your rope.

Square Knot

A square knot is the gold standard for joining two ropes together. I was taught to tie one with the mantra "Right over left, left over right."

Cross the right hand line over the left.

Then loop the free end down and over.

 Repeat the same with the left side.

It should look like this:

Then pull tight.

Keep it all secure!

Lokidude

Guest Post: How to Make a Paracord Sling

by Firehand

Erin linked to this 'How to braid a paracord belt' post not long ago, and after looking it over I thought two things:

1)  If you needed cord, this braid will pull apart fast & easy
2)  This would make a good sling.

So I made one, and it works nicely (I used five loops instead of four). I did wonder about another method of attaching the end buckle - or in this case, a sling loop - at the end, so fiddled with it and came up with this:




Get it to the length you want.











Pull the through loop line all the way through

Loop it up through the sling loop...

...and then through the first loop on the braid. It'll look like the finger loops

Repeat all the way down.

Take the end through the loops...

... and tighten it all up.








I'm doing some messing around with this last step. Melting the end to attach it to the end loop would lock it, but I'm thinking that tying a half-hitch tight against the end of the braid, then melting the end, would be a better way to go; that way you could cut that end a bit more easily to get it loose if you need to unravel the sling.