Planning A Plan

The dust has settled and the First 72 Hours have passed. Follow along as I build a long term plan via Prudent Prepping. 
It appears that a short camping trip has been tentatively added to the calendar. Furthermore, the balance of my camping gear not lost has been uncovered and is going into different totes. 

If anyone has been following the Continuing Saga of What's On Fire Now In California and my failure to go fishing or camping for years, I'd like to tell you what while I'm still not expecting to go, I will be packed and ready. (I actually bought a Fishing License this year, that's how serious I am.) The things that are getting packed first are the bulkier camping gear, like the Klymit LWD I was given for my birthday in 2019 that has not yet been used.

Klymit Light Water Dinghy

https://amzn.to/3iQzk4S

From the Amazon ad:

• Inspired by the pros: designed with kayakers and pack rafters, the LWD is an advanced pack raft tracks well, is stable, and allows use of canoe or kayak paddle - Arrow shape design increases maneuverability - ideal for canyoneering and backcountry Wade
• Easy to inflate: pump is efficient and easy to use, converts to a dry sack for gear storage and protection
• Two valves for quick inflation & deflation, includes dry sack pump, and 6 tie-off Zones for lashing gear or securing the dinghy on shore
• Ultra lightweight: weighs only 44 ounces making it one of the lightest rafts of its kind;
• Ergonomic padded seating: built-in inflatable seat is comfortable and provides insulation from cold water
• sport type: Camping & HikingOutdoor Lifestyle

Editor's Note: all of the above is [Sic]

Please read the 2019 post for how I received this wonderful item.

Fishing Gear

While cleaning I found my fishing reels, which need to be refilled with line after sitting in a garage for years. In the past, I've bought spools and filled reels myself, but that just means the balance of the spool goes to waste these days. A sporting goods store fairly close offers to fill reels and charges by the yard, so I'm heading there soon.

I also found my tackle boxes and other than 2-3 rubber worms or wiggle bait melted into a tray, everything looks good with no rust or crud. 

What I can't find (so far) is my worm box. It looks similar to this one found on Amazon and may actually the same brand, but there are no labels left on mine.  

https://amzn.to/3cP4ghU

• Built-in carrying handles make transporting bait easy
• High insulation value
• Ideal small portable bait container
• Opens from the top or the bottom
• Contains Magic Worm bedding and instructions

Pretty self-explanatory, other than the "opens from bottom" bit. The box has two lids that allow you to always get to your worms or crawlers just by turning the box over. 

Cooking

Last week's post was about ordering a replacement pan set for one that I lost, and there was a question as to why I ordered the more expensive option over the exact item as before. I didn't make it clear that the reason was to get the non-stick cooking pot over the unlined version. Yes, I know how the lining will potentially wear, but the ease of cleaning in the short term is a big benefit.

 

Sleeping

I have a summer weight sleeping bag and an inflatable pad mentioned here that I've taken on trips, just not camping. Unfortunately, that pad has been discontinued. 

 
Change Of Status
With the way my family situation has changed, my Prepping Plan has blended I'm Not Going Anywhere with just a tiny bit Get Out Of Dodge. The place where I kept over half of my prepping gear will soon be unavailable, and I need to do some serious pruning and trimming of supplies to fit into the storage spot I have left. While I'm not getting rid of equipment, I am going to get rid of as much of my short-term food as possible, replacing it with longer-term items. 

Water jugs, food-grade buckets and totes take up a surprising amount of room. I would have an even bigger problem if I hadn't given away so many jugs (and a couple of five gallon buckets) over the years! Several of those people gifted are not close friends any longer, but I feel better about sharing gear and knowledge, whether or not karma may make a visit.

Depending how soon my family status changes will determine how soon (and how much) Get Out Of Dodge is the majority of my plans. I don't want a change, but it is certainly coming. Wish me luck.
 
Recap And Takeaway

• I need a plan, but I don't yet have one. I have options, though, and I'm thinking about how to turn them into plans A, B, C, and so forth. 
• Nothing was purchased this week, but as the trip gets closer and I get all my gear uncovered, inspected and cleaned, there likely will be some things purchased.

* * *

Just a reminder: if you plan on buying anything through Amazon, please consider using our referral link. When you do, a portion of the sale comes back here to help keep this site running!
If you have comments, suggestions or corrections, please post them so we all can learn. And remember, Some Is Always Better Than None!

NOTE: All items tested were purchased by me. No products have been loaned in exchange for a favorable review. Any items sent to me for T&E will be listed as such. Suck it Feds.

Fish Traps

 

I love to fish, but in a survival situation, it's far from the easiest way to get food. This week, I look at a far more efficient way to get fish.

Lokidude

Vermiculture and Fishing

Vermiculture is the growing of worms for a specific purpose. Growing worms may sound like an odd endeavor, but there are several reasons why a prepper might want to do a little research on it.

I mentioned vermiculture in my post about composting toilets (CT), so you may recognize the word if you're a regular reader. Turning waste into something useful is what worms do, so this is a good use for them. Once you have an established colony of happy little waste eaters, you can “harvest” a portion to sell to others setting up a similar CT. The best online resource I've found so far (free and a good amount of information) is here.

Composting other forms of waste like food scraps, grass trimmings, and leaves is a lot quicker when worms are added to the mix. Proper aeration and moisture will keep the wrigglers happy and they'll eat their own body weight every day, providing “castings”, or worm feces, that is and excellent fertilizer for food crops. We don't seem to have a writer with a lot of experience in composting, so if you have such experience please contact me (comment below or drop a note on our Facebook page). I'd like to get more information out to our readers, but I'm not going to “pull a rabbit out of my hat” and try to explain something I've never done.

Fishing bait is another good use for worms. The fact that this is the time of year (spring) when the weekly rains will bring the night crawlers and earthworms out of the soil for us to pick up and use for bait is is actually what sparked the idea for this article, There are methods for coaxing or driving worms out of the soil which I may write more about later, but the main problem I have seen is storing them for more than a day or two. Worms live in cool, moist dirt, and if you want to keep them alive for any length of time you're going to have to provide something similar. Buckets full of soil are heavy and hard to dig through, so a couple of companies have developed “bedding” material for worms.

MagicBuss Bed-ding (that's the way they spell it) is the brand that my family has used for decades. Amazon's pricing is high, so check local stores or any other online sporting goods stores. It's made of recycled paper with some nutrients added and is designed to keep worms alive but not reproduce. Sold in several sizes of bags, you mix a quart of water with each pound of dry bedding, and then add worms. It makes a light, fluffy, dark gray mixture that worms can move through easily.

My father usually keeps 40-50 dozen night crawlers (they're the local favorite) in a couple of five-gallon buckets stored in a cheap refrigerator in the garage. He'll pick up worms in April and have live bait through November with very few problems. Leftovers at the end of the season are returned to the soil before the first hard freeze so they can spend the winter in their natural habitat. The refrigerator is set fairly warm, about 40-45 °F and the cool, dark, conditions are good for the worms. Grabbing a handful to take fishing for the day is simple, and having them in storage means more “spur of the moment” fishing.

Baitboxes for worms are normally insulated to keep them cool, and most have lids on two sides. The worms will tend to congregate on the bottom of the box, so instead of digging through the box you just flip it over and open what was the bottom lid. This is much easier than lugging around a five-gallon bucket, and the worms survive longer in an insulated box when the temperature starts to climb.

If you're growing worms instead of merely storing those you have found, you're going to have a surplus eventually. Selling bait may not pay the mortgage, but it is a time-honored method of providing extra income in areas near popular fishing spots. Overhead and operating supplies are minimal; a good root cellar will store them as well as a refrigerator, and if you're composting anyway the feed is free.

Kids can learn valuable lessons running a small bait business, from advertising to inventory control and security on a small scale, while making a bit of pocket change in good times and extra income for the family during hard times. Prices around here are a dollar or two per dozen, and the city folks would rather pay that than store their own.

Growing worms may not be for everyone, but it may be something that you can read up on and keep in the back of your mind. Having options is part of being prepared for life's ups and downs, this is just another option for some of us.

Mini Survival Kits: The Covert Kit

Last week, we I put together the Spare Parts survival kit, which is suited to a purse, backpack, or other bag. I promised something more pocketable and this week, with the caveat that it wouldn't be an Altoids can. With that said, let's look at the Covert Kit.

The first thing to address is why I chose to not go with the classic Altoids can: quite simply, everyone wants a mint. They see a mint tin, and they're bound to ask. The same goes for hard gum containers; I have a Mentos gum canister on my cart at work that is full of screws, and about once a week, I hear a cry of disappointment when someone finds out that it contains nothing that is either nutritious or delicious. (We have a fairly open munchies policy among friend, so if it's in the open, you're usually sharing.)

So, in the name of security, we need a solid container that contains something most folks won't want to share. The unlikely yet perfect solution is a chewing tobacco tin. I don't advocate tobacco use, because it's not great for you; but if you chew, get some extra use from your chew cans, and if you don't, it's quite likely you know someone who does, and you can generally have their discarded cans simply by asking. The cans you're looking for are either metal and plastic or all metal; cardboard chew cans don't hold up enough to be much use.

Snus cans are the holy grail for this exercise. They're a bit bigger than dip cans, with a much handier shape. They're also all-metal, with a nearly watertight lid. Close observers will note there is a hole in the top of my snus can; that's because I used my char cloth tin for this demonstration. Whatever can you use, be sure to wash it out first, or else all your gear ends up smelling like tobacco.

The contents of the can.

In one snus can, I was able to fit all of the following, with a bit of room to spare:

• 50' of 6# test fishing line
• 3 1/8oz jigs
• 10 strike-anywhere matches
• a small pocketknife
• a ferro/magnesium rod and striker
• a handful of jute fibers

If I'd had any handy, I'd have added some large-ish sewing needles. (I have no clue about the proper sizing, but ones with eyes large enough to thread 6# fishing line.)

Fishing line is handy general-use cordage, in addition to being handy for catching fish.

I chose jigs instead of bare hooks so that I don't need to carry separate weights. This saves space and prevents loss of parts.

The knife is just a little thing I've had around forever. It holds a decent edge and fits very nicely in the tin.

The fire supplies are something I've gone over several times. I carry a couple methods at any given time, and jute is well-known as my favorite tinder. I could fit a lighter in in lieu of one of the methods in the can, but I keep a Bic in my pocket as a general EDC thing, so I'd rather have a different option in the can.

Everything fit in the can, with room to spare.

The most important part of any mini kit is to tailor it to you. Plan it around your environment, your needs, and your priorities. If very little of your time is spent outside of town, fishing gear is likely to be wasted, but first aid gear could be very commonly needed.

I'd really like to see what the readers can come up with. What unique containers do you use? What interesting bits do you carry in your kits? How have you grown and changed your particular kit?

Lokidude

Knightly Bees and Peckish Perch

This will be my final entry about the camping trip from back in October 2015 that Evelyn and I took out to Knight's Rest here in Oklahoma.

Fishing
The Masseys, who own Knight's Rest, maintain a really nice fishing pond on the property, and it's stocked with perch, bluegill, and various other pan fish and sunfish. This little pond is chronically under-fished, and that's both good and bad:

It's good because it means that the fish who live in that water will bite on practically any lure you happen to toss out -- which means you'll almost always have a big pile of fish to cook up for dinner when you toss in a line.

It's bad because some of those fish think they're starving, and will swallow your entire lure rather than simply hooking themselves! I had to put a fresh hook on my line a couple of times due to over-eager perch swallowing the hook sufficiently that it couldn't be retrieved until we started cleaning them for dinner. This isn't a problem if you have spare hooks and lures (we both had plenty) but potentially a problem for someone in a survival situation where they need more than one fish, and taking the time to gut and clean the first in order to retrieve their only hook could be an issue.

While many of us have fishing gear of various qualities (and quantities!) I was putting the test on a mini rod & reel that I had purchased specifically as part of my survival/prep gear. I wanted something small enough to pack out easily, but sturdy enough I wasn't going to be in constant fear of it breaking at a critical moment, like when I was depending on it for eating vs. going hungry.

What I settled on was this little gem: the Zebco Dock Demon Spincast Combo

http://amzn.to/1WlAJ2w

• Available through Amazon for $16.80, but I picked mine up at Wal-Mart for less than $10.
• Very light, with less than 11 ounces total weight to worry about carrying. 
• Small enough to be easily handled by anyone, even a small child, but not so small that full-sized adults can't use it.
• Sturdy enough that in the several months since I got it, I've managed to land catfish and bass that had a whole lot more fight to them than the perch we were pulling out of the pond.

If you're looking for a really light weight, easy to pack fishing set, this is definitely one to consider.

Cooking them up was a bit of trial and error to top off the adventure of extracting eaten lures. Evelyn decided that roasting sounded like a great idea, and set about building a green limb roasting spit arrangement similar to those used in the 1600s and 1700s by various Native tribes.

It managed to stay together just long enough to finish roasting some of the fish.  The rest went into a stew pot, as being the easier route to take for dinner!

Seasoning
Now Evelyn and I are fairly passable cooks, both in the home kitchen and using a grill or campfire set up. One of the reasons that we manage to eat well is because we both maintain a good selection of herbs, spices, and spice blends to use in our camp cooking, even when what we're eating is fresh fish or a duck we took 2 hours to pluck.

A little bit of seasoning can go a long way towards staving off food boredom, and its resultant lack of desire to eat anything at all. In the field, especially when situations become critical, making sure that you eat enough to keep your strength up -- and that you actually enjoy that food sufficiently that eating doesn't become a chore to be avoided -- is critically important. Good nutrition can mean the difference between seeing tomorrow's sunset and your tribe having to take time out of their survival to bury you.

There are dozens of easy methods of storing small amounts of spices and seasonings in airtight packaging to stash in your gear. Even a 29 cent packet of Ramen is a lot more palatable with a bit of extra spices tossed into the mix while it's boiling. And that plain beef or chicken broth from a cube and hot water actually becomes a passable soup when you throw in a little bit of something other than salt.

Bees! BEEEEEEES!
We were at Knight's Rest just before winter truly set in, and the Bees were busy gathering as much as they could during those final warm days. In the early mornings we could hear the huge wild hive come awake as things began to warm up for the day.

The ever-productive girls from that wild hive were frequent visitors to our camp. Yes, girls; honeybees are female, except for perhaps 6-10 males produced once a year for the sole purpose of mating with the hive queen. They are also surprisingly docile as long as they don't perceive you as a threat to themselves or their hive. Stinging you isn't on the agenda -- it's a death sentence for them -- so simply leaving them alone to do their thing is the best way to deal with them coming into your camp.

Bees are just easy-going working girls, wanting nothing more than to go about their job. I keep telling myself this, because even though I know that it's the case, I'm still rather paranoid about getting stung. That paranoia cost me a bit of pain towards the end of our time at KR.

One poor little bee decided to land and rest. Unfortunately for me, where she wanted to rest was on my face. And then in my hair. And then back to my face. And of course, I made the mistake of trying to brush her away, which knocked her down the back of my shirt - trapping her and agitating her at the same time. The results were not pretty: one dead bee, one panic stricken Rhi, one highly amused Evelyn, and a chuckling Jen Massey, who provided us with a surprisingly effective remedy for the sting.

While most folks consider it a wives' tale, meat tenderizer actually works to take the pain out of a bee sting. A paste made of meat tenderizer and just enough water to turn it into a slightly sticky clump, when applied directly to the area where the sting happened, will feel like a miracle worker within a couple of minutes.

While you might not keep meat tenderizer in your kit for cooking, keeping a small sealed jar of it in your first aid kit as a cheap, effective means of dealing with stings isn't a bad idea.

The Takeaways From Our Adventure
Personally, I learned a lot during that month we spent in the field. I learned just why we in the community seem to harp so often on actually using and maintaining the various skills you have.

Keeping a fire going for days or even weeks at a time isn't easy. Keeping a fire going in adverse weather conditions can be a serious trial of patience, but is even more important than keeping it going while the weather is nice and cooperative. If you don't practice starting and maintaining a fire in all sorts of conditions, along with any other potentially critical skills, you might just find that you've forgotten something important when your life is depending on your knowledge base.

I have a deep-seated appreciation of those who actively choose to raise and grow our food, and I learned that while I "can" live off the land, I like my creature comforts too much to ever actually look forward to a situation where I have no choice but to do so.

• Plucking a bird is time consuming, frustrating, and messy. I'd rather spend $18 on a bird at my local grocery store, buying one that's ready to cook, than spend $10 (or the time to trap/hunt) on a live bird and then 2 hours getting it ready just to begin the cooking. 
• Gardening may sound like a fun hobby, but its also time consuming and labor intensive to grow all your own food, and greatly restricts what is available in your diet to things that will grow in your area. 

Don't ever forget to be thankful for global transportation, groceries that carry produce year round, and the convenience of not having to carefully hoard every spare scrap of food to make it through non growing seasons!

I learned that sometimes an old remedy (meat tenderizer on bee stings) continues to get passed down for generations because it actually works.The science backs it up, and so does empirical data!.

I learned that a determined enough animal will find a way into your supplies, even when you think those supplies are secure. Large enough animals can do a considerable amount of damage, even when they're not "predatory" in nature. So never make the assumption that you've covered all the contingencies.

I learned that a rattlesnake will keep moving after you shoot it, even after its been blown into two pieces. And that I never, ever want to make Evelyn decide that I'm a valid target!

Practice your skills, folks. Even the minor ones you don't think you'll ever need should be practiced regularly. Its no joke -- we weren't in a life or death situation, and we were camped where we had plenty of backup and leeway close to hand if it was needed, but that won't always be the case.

Whatever you happen to do... just make sure to bee prepared!

Survival Fishing

We've covered the base components of a universal fishing rig. While the parts we've covered in no way even approach all the possibilities in gear, what we covered works well in almost all fresh water to catch almost all species of fish. Beyond that, as Erin is fond of saying, fishing gear is as much about catching fishermen as fish.

Now we take a look at some practical, yet unconventional, fishing methods. I call them "survival fishing" because they allow the best chance of obtaining fish with the lowest possible energy spent, and in a survival situation that saved energy is vital.

All these methods hinge on one concept: leaving baited hooks anchored in the water while you do other tasks. In contrast to standard fishing methods, rods and reels are not normally used in any of these methods. Be advised, there may be laws regarding use of these techniques, so check before you use them.

Single Set Lines
A single set line consists of one baited hook on a line that is anchored to some point on the shore. Appropriate weight is placed on the line to hold the bait down, and the rig is thrown to the desired point in the water. Several of these can be set in an area to increase the chances of a successful catch. Look for eddys or other places where slow water meets fast water. Low tree branches, fallen logs, or bushes along the water's edge make excellent anchor points.

Trotlines
Trotlines are similar to a single set line in that one end is weighted while the other end is anchored to the shore. The big difference is that trotlines have multiple baited hooks along their length. A float is frequently used on the offshore end to hold the bait off the bottom a bit. 

They're great in large, slow moving waters where fish spread out some. The main line is weighted, and each hook is tied to a separate leader attached to the main line. With this setup, one trotline could possibly catch multiple fish. If you have enough gear, you could set a couple trotlines if the terrain permits.

Image from covertress.blogspot.com

Jugging
Jugging is primarily used for catfish, and seems most popular in the South and Midwest. As the name implies, some kind of plastic jug (or pool noodle) is used as a float, with the baited hook suspended below it. Recreational juggers set and retrieve their jugs from a boat, and let them float freely. When a bait gets taken, the jug bobs and dances to very visibly indicate the hit. In a survival situation, or without a boat, jugs can be anchored in a manner similar to a single set line. The depth of each bait can be varied simply by changing the length of line below the jug.

Image from Georgia Outdoor News Forum

Gill Nets
Gill nets don't use hooks or lines at all, instead trapping fish by the gills as they try to swim through the netting. I've included them here because they are the ultimate in survival fishing: maximum reward for minimum effort. In fact, they are so efficient that their use is banned in everything except survival situations, so use these only in emergencies. 

Since I've never used one, I refer you to a great article on how to use them. 

Maintenance

All of these sets require regular checking for caught fish. Jugging makes checking simple, since the jugs can be seen from the shore and readily show whether a fish is on. Single set lines can also sometimes be checked visually. The only really good way to check a trotline is to pull it in and check each hook, and gill nets require you to lift them out of the water to check for (and retrieve) the fish.

Commonly used baits for these sets include cut fish, shrimp, and various organ meats from game or farm animals. Some commercially prepared baits also work. Baits with a strong scent can attract fish from further away, and scent will be the primary attractant of these rigs.

Used properly, these rigs will greatly stack fishing odds in your favor. When you're desperate for food, there are few ways to get meat that are more efficient.

Lokidude

Fishing: Get Hooked on Terminal Tackle

Now that we've gone over rods and line, it's time to look at what actually goes on that line. The collection of bits and bobs that affix to your line are called terminal tackle and consist of weights, hooks, floats, and a variety of other things that come together to hook and hold fish.

Floats
Sometimes referred to as bobbers, a float holds your bait at a set depth below the surface. Finding the proper depth is generally a bit of trial and error until you learn fish patterns on a particular water. Bobbers also serve as an excellent indicator when a fish takes your bait, as they bounce and dive in a very visible fashion. I'm a fan of the old school two-tone style that are very easy to set and adjust. Red and white is traditional, but other colors are available; pick the color combination you can see best and run with it.

http://amzn.to/1XUOT7S

Weights
There is an array of weights or sinkers on the market. Each one does a particular task, and as you gain experience, you'll find yourself using a wider variety. The basic starting point for weight is the split-shot sinker. Made of lead or cast zinc, they are available in a range of weights to suit most situations. They simply crimp on your line at any point you desire, and can be combined to get whatever amount of weight gets the job done. The only particular feature to seek out are "ears" on the back of the weight, which allow it to be easily removed and re-used.

Expanded view of split shot from Eagle Claw. Note the ears on top.

Swivels and Snaps
The nature of moving through water gives fishing line a tendency to twist. Swivels allow your bait and hook to spin freely without knotting or binding your line, and snaps allow quick and easy changes to your rig. While they are available separately, my preference is for the combination model which simplifies your gear bag and covers almost all situations.

http://amzn.to/1WRnZ2i

http://amzn.to/1VUJtMn

Hooks
The selection of hooks is pretty much limitless. Sometimes your choices will be limited by rules on a particular water (some have regulations against treble hooks or barbed hooks, for example), but beyond that it becomes a matter of style and preference. For basic baits, I like a baitholder style in a size 6 or 8. This style has a couple small barbs on the back shank of the hook, which keeps your bait from slipping off.

If a hook says it is "snelled" it means that it has a short leader pre-tied from the factory, and is ready to clip directly to your snap.

The two other major hook types are jigs and treble hooks. A treble hook is three hooks sharing a single eye and shank. They're great for soft doughy baits. Again, a size 6 or 8 is the ideal size for most fish.

http://amzn.to/1WRpsG2

Jigs are hooks with weights built right on to the shank. They're usually paired with some kind of a plastic lure, and give a swimming action much like an injured baitfish. The weights range from 1/16 oz. up to 1/2 oz. or more, in a number of specialized shapes. The basic jig is a round head model weighing 1/8 or 1/4 ounce. Jigs have the benefit of cutting back on snags, because their shape keeps the point of the hook pointed up and away from the bottom. (Does this mean the jig is up? Sorry, I'll see myself out. -- Editor)

http://amzn.to/1rxfldM

At this point, you're geared to add bait and catch fish. There are other bits that will make you more successful, but you've got everything we learned with as kids. As an aside, if you want a basic kit of terminal tackle to throw in a bag and go, this package covers the basics. It won't get you a lot of variety, and it's not fancy, but it's all of the basics for about $5.

http://amzn.to/1MWuAqe

First Aid
As a matter of warning, fish hooks are very sharp, and for good reason. If you're not very careful, you will get hooked instead of the fish. This hurts. A lot. Erin found a very handy article about how to remove a fish hook. I recommend that you read it now, before you need it. When someone is stuck and hurting is not the time to try and learn a new skill.

Lokidude

Fishing Part 3: Line

Fishing line is what connects the fish to you. It is also the most common failure point in a fishing rig by many orders of magnitude. This should lead to the conclusion that your line must be checked regularly and replaced whenever needed. You should also give some thought to the line you select.

Particular brands of line (and terminal tackle) are less important than actual characteristics, despite what brand adherents will tell you. Much like Ford/Chevy/Dodge arguments, fishing brand arguments are carried on with religious fervor, with zero real outcome. Instead, find a line weight and type that meets your liking.

Weight
Lines are rated by weight rating, stated as "pound test." As an example, a line rated at "6 pound test" is a very good choice for freshwater fishing in North America. The 6 pound rating means that, as it comes off the spool, it should break at no less than 6 pounds of strain, and often breaks far higher that that. Lines with lighter ratings have a smaller diameter and are more flexible, meaning you can feel fish bite better, as well as being less visible to wary fish. Heavier rated lines are obviously stronger, handling larger fish as well as heavy cover where large fish hide.

Type
The other characteristic used to classify line is the material and construction method. The three most common types are monofilament, braid, and hybrid. Each has their own benefits and detriments, and they all fish a little differently.

Monofilament
Monofilament, or mono, is old-school line, and is the most popular line in the USA. Mono is also the most budget-friendly fishing line. Made from a single extrusion of soft plastic, it has great stretch properties and the ability to take a knot well. All-around, mono is a fine choice in line.

Braid
Braided lines are a fairly new technology. They offer zero stretch, and far greater strength, than monofilament of the same diameter. This translates to thinner lines with the same strength, longer casts and more sensitive feel. The trade-off is that braids are far harder to knot or cut, and the lack of stretch means they need to be fished with more finesse than mono. They also have a higher price point than monofilament.

Hybrid
Hybrid lines combine the best parts of monofilament with the advantages of a less-common type of line called fluorocarbon. By combining the two, you get an easy-tying line that has a bit more give than fluro and more strength and abrasion resistance than mono, but lacking the stretch and feel of mono. It is also more expensive than mono, priced on par with many braids.

Which One Do I Use?
As a practical example, the rods in my the house are strung in different ways. Most are strung with either 4 or 6 pound monofilament, which gives me the freedom to fish for anything from bluegill and crappie to large trout and bass.

I also have a couple heavier action rods that are strung with 12 pound hybrid line, which are used for catfish and for using heavy plugs and crankbaits, especially when fishing weed beds and cover that bass seek.

I don't have braids on anything, because it doesn't fill any holes in my gear.

Important!
Whichever line you choose needs to be checked for damage as you fish, and any damaged portions discarded. Damaged line breaks far more easily, costing you hooks, lures and fish. 

As the volume of line on your reel gets low, refill the reel spool with replacement line to keep fishing. I generally have to do this about once a year on my personal reels.

Lokidude

Fishing: Rods and Reels, Ways and Means

There is an unimaginably wide variety of rods and reels on the market, each one fitting a particular niche or designed for a specific job. The rod used in the surf is different from the rod used to fish weed beds on a bass pond. Both of those rods are different from the rod used to fish high mountain rivers.

The Types

Fly Rods

Image from flydepot.com

Rods used for fly fishing are very long and thin. They usually range between 7 and 9 feet long, with a very whippy feel. They're only really useful with fly fishing reels and line. While fly fishing can be an effective way to catch fish, it is really more of a hobby for most folks than a survival skill.

Trolling Rods

Image from fishusa.com

Trolling is the technique of pulling bait or lures behind a boat. Trolling can be done with a variety of rods, but rigs dedicated to the purpose also exist. These rigs use heavy, stout rods and large reels with weighted lines, often color marked to indicate length. Trolling is a highly effective way to catch fish, but does require a boat. If you're stocking the freezer, it works great. As a survival method, it is almost useless.

Spinning and Spincasting

Image from learninghowtofish.com

These rods are great general purpose rigs. Which one you see is often a regional thing, but they work the same way. They come in a wide range of weights and stiffnesses, able to meet almost any need.


Which One Do I Choose?

Image from orvis.com

The rig you choose is mostly determined by the water you fish. On a mountain river awash with insects, a fly rod is excellent. They also work well in small ponds, but on larger rivers and lakes, spinning or spincasting rigs are hard to beat. In deep water chasing big fish, nothing matches a trolling rig.

If you can only have one rod, I'd recommend a spinning or spincasting rig, roughly 6' long with 6-8 pound line. It's a jack of all trades and master of none, but it can be employed in virtually any water for any species. Something made by Shakespeare or Zebco will be easy on your budget while providing lasting performance.

Lokidude

Fishing: An Introduction

A great question came up on the BCP Facebook page this week.

"Need some help. Let's say someone either never learned to fish, or hasn't been since early elementary school some 30 years ago. What licenses (Florida), supplies, resources and guides do they need to get started? Thanks."

Fishing... yeah, I know a thing or two about that. Problem is, there's a whole lot to know: the type of fish you're after, the body of water you're fishing on, and the time of year all weigh heavily on the methods, equipment, and rules you have to work with.

The Rules
Staying out of jail and not being stripped of hunting and fishing privileges sits atop the list of considerations for where and how you fish. In a true survival situation, you'll most likely earn a pass on game laws, but short of that, you need to know and obey the laws.

Fortunately, most states make this very easy. In my state of Utah, the Division of Wildlife Resources publishes a series of rules books each year, and also makes them available as a phone app and online. Most states do this; a Google search for your state and "fish and game" will find you the applicable information.These pamphlets are also commonly distributed at sporting goods stores, wildlife department offices, and other places you can buy fishing licenses.

Because Florida was specific to the question, their site is here.

Gear
This can easily become a matter of infinite diversity in infinite combinations: the gear you select is based on the method of fishing employed, the type of fish being targeted, and a good measure of personal preference on the part of the fisherman.

At its most basic, however, it breaks down into a few categories:

• Rod, Reel, and Line
• Terminal Tackle and Accessories
• Lures and Baits 

These combine to make a complete rig, tuned to the fisherman's style and the method employed. Each of these will be explored in detail later.

Method
Correct fishing method is determined by the skill set of the fisherman, the time of year, the target fish, and the type of water body being fished. Winter fishing on a lake is a world different than spring fly fishing on a river or summertime pond fishing. All three can be very productive, to the point of catching the exact same size and species of fish, but at the same time, all three require entirely different skill sets and equipment. In addition, techniques are always being modified and tested, so there is always something to learn.


In the coming weeks, I will break down gear and methods, showing both regional preferences and some universal truths. By the end, you'll hopefully be able to put a tasty fish in the frying pan regularly.

Lokidude

Roll-Your-Own Fishing Lures

While searching the internet for a particular video, I stumbled across a video describing how to make your own fishing lures from paracord. Though the basics of the idea were solid enough, the execution left huge room for improvement.

That said, here is my greatly improved method for making your own fishing lures from basic paracord.

Materials required for this project:

• Paracord in your chosen color
• 1/8 oz fishing jig
• thread
• superglue or clear nail polish

Pull the center threads approximately an inch out of the outer sheath.

Cut your paracord so that the outer sheath is roughly the length from the back of the jig head to the bend of the hook. The center strands will hang beyond this, as shown.

Thread the hook through the sheath, while pinching the whole paracord bundle to keep the center threads in place.  The sheath will end up sliding over the base of the jig head.

Wrap the thread around the sheath where it covers the base of the jig head to secure it to the hook. If you have a fly-tying vise, it makes ths a very simple step. If not, a bit of tape or a pair of pliers used on the point of the hook provide a huge help. A couple wraps of thread towards the tail of the hook are optional, but make the lure more durable. However you wrap, your last passes should be behind the thread, and secured with the knot of your choice.

Use superglue or clear nail polish to seal the thread wrap at the head and extend the life of the lure. Trim the inner strands so that the ends are even, to form a tail 1/2 to 3/4 the length of the hook. Fluff the tail to get more motion under water, which will attract more fish.

The finished product.

While jigs like this will work on their own, they're even more effective when tipped with a piece of worm, fish meat, or some other bait.  They quite nicely replicate commercially manufactured jigs, at a fraction of the cost, and are a staple in almost any tackle box.

Lokidude

In Honor of April Fool's Day

Need to do survival fishing but don't have a hook or a line? Never fear, just use your "wedding tackle" as demonstrated in this video!


Blue Collar Prepping accepts no responsibility if your penis is damaged while attempting this technique.

Cleaning and Gutting Fish

Food is vital to life.  If you're hunting or fishing to survive, it is quite obviously critical that you know how to find and process food.  There is glory in bringing home big game, obviously, but it is far simpler and more economical (from a standpoint of time and energy invested in relation to food attained) to focus on small game and fish.  And since I went fishing this weekend, fish will be today's subject.

Landing fish is tough to teach, and a regional thing.  The best way to learn is to find a mentor in your area who can show you techniques and methods that work where you are.

Cleaning and processing your take, however, is fairly simple.  I'm not nearly so practiced on trout as my dad, so he's the one running the knife in this video.  My skill set for cleaning fish is more related to bass and walleye, and when I get some of those in the boat, I'll teach that as well.

Fair warning: if you have a weak stomach, the video in this post is not for you.  Dad can process a trout in roughly a minute, but it's messy.

So, a breakdown of what you saw:

1. Hold the fish belly up in your non-dominant hand.  
2. Start your cut at the anal fin (the rear fin on the bottom of the fish) and cut upward to the gill plates.
3. There are two slits on the "chin" of the fish, cut across at the front of the jaw to join these slits. 
4. Put your thumb in the opening you just made, and pull firmly down towards the tail.  All of the innards should come out in one pull.  
5. All that is left is the main blood vessel along the spine.  Run your knife from front to back along the vein to free it, then use your thumb (or a spoon handle, or whatever you have handy) to remove the vein. 
6. Rinse everything very well, and your fish is ready to be frozen, baked, grilled, smoked, or any other cooking method you like.

Eat well, my friends.

Lokidude