Short Takes

The dust has settled and the First 72 Hours have passed. Follow along as I build a long term plan via Prudent Prepping.

Here is another sampling of information that I can't make into stand-alone posts. It would be somewhat easier to do blog posts if Life stopped getting into the way, but I don't see that happening any time soon. If at all. Ever.

The Bag(s) Of Holding

Erin has written about her recent bag modifications here, here, here, here and here, while I posted my latest update here. Questions were asked and (in my mind) unfair comparisons made between what both of us have built. A further question was asked about total weight for the small-ish pack I have and what might be altered to fit around my Essential List. I'm working on that question and hope to have a decent answer soon. 

Improved Storage

With the loss of both places I had my bulky gear stored, I now need to seriously down-size and pack things into smaller containers along with getting rid of even more stuff. The largest tote I use now is 27 gallons, and still quite heavy if gear isn't parceled out correctly. I have a need for a reasonably waterproof small container, and think I found one at Home Depot: the Husky 5-Gal. Professional Duty Waterproof Storage Container. (Please follow the link to see the complete ad and better pictures.)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-Gal-Professional-Duty-Waterproof-Storage-Container-with-Hinged-Lid-in-Red-248918/313861296#overlay

From the web page:

• Constructed of a durable polypropylene and a polycarbonate lid for long-lasting storage use
• 6-point latching lid and interior gasket protects contents from dust and water
• Includes tie down holes to secure container
• Heavy-duty side handles for easier carrying
• Stackable for easy storing
• Rated IP65

 This Husky Professional Storage Container is designed for all your heavy-duty storage needs inside and out. It features heavy-duty construction to easily and conveniently store most garage/workshop items efficiently. Built Husky tough to withstand rugged and tough conditions. Great to secure tools and accessories on the jobsite. The secure 6 point latching lid and interior gasket protects your items from dust and water. The high-impact resistant polycarbonate lid is the strongest available and provides clear visibility to contents inside along with stackability. This storage container will provide years of durable storage space whenever you need it, in the home or on the jobsite. Designed and tested to withstand heavy abuse from dropping, stacking and tossing.

This container has bigger brothers, all made with nice locking catches and a gasket in the lid for added moisture protection. I chose this container for my important papers, photos and hard copies of things that are stored with Google, with printed copies of everything also, along with a thumb drive kept with PPL.

Recap And Takeaway

• I really needed to be nudged, hard, into doing this downsizing. While I'm giving away lots of usable items, most of it isn't necessary in my current situation.
• Nothing was purchased this week, but my Future Purchase shopping list is growing.

* * *

Just a reminder: if you plan on buying anything through Amazon, please consider using our referral link. When you do, a portion of the sale comes back here to help keep this site running!

If you have comments, suggestions or corrections, please post them so we all can learn. And remember, Some Is Always Better Than None!

NOTE: All items tested were purchased by me. No products have been loaned in exchange for a favorable review. Any items sent to me for T&E will be listed as such. Suck it Feds.

Erin's New GHB, part 6: Sleeping Gear

Not actually Erin.

Picture by KJ Photography

& is used with permission.

So now I have a fire going to keep me warm, boil water, and cook my food. What's next? I think it's time for sleep.  See you next week!

Yeah, about that? Whoops. There's some stuff I forgot to mention. 

First of all, where is my water coming from? That would be a hydration bladder attached to the back of the pack. This particular one is a Camelbak of unknown volume (I want to say 2 or 2.5 L), but it's looking a bit old and so I've ordered a 3L bladder to replace it. Below that are my sleeping arrangements, which I'll detail soon. 

In case you're wondering what the white board behind the bladder might be, it's a stiffener board from Ammo Can Man to give this pack some internal rigidity, and behind it is a foam pad to aid in comfort. You can buy both of them as a set for $15.50 on Amazon, and if you have a soft pack like mine I highly recommend you get both of them to improve your backpacking experience. 

On to the sleeping arrangements. In the above picture you can see how they're stowed; the below picture is a more "exploded view" with the waterproofing bags removed so you can get a better view of what's going on. 

Top Row:

• Klymit Cush. I reviewed this product elsewhere on this blog; it's an excellent "I just need a bit more padding right here" kind of cushion. 
• SOL Escape Bivvy. Remember that I live in Florida, where it's usually 72° or higher most of the year; I don't need a substantial sleeping bag at all. Between this and the mylar tent I'm in, I ought to be quite warm. 
• I don't recall paying $60 for this; I think it was closer to $25-30. I think the higher price is because this item may be discontinued. I chose this one specifically because of its durability:
  

https://amzn.to/3zQY0zd

• Trekology inflatable pillow. I'm a side-sleeper, and so I have very specific requirements about how thick my pillow should be. I'm very pleased with this one; not only is it comfortable, but the flocking feels good against my face. 
• But Erin, don't you have another travel pillow elsewhere? 
• Yes, I do, because I'm one of those weirdos who needs a pillow between their knees to be comfortable at night. That one isn't as nice, and so goes there instead of against my face. 

Bottom Row:

• Klymit V Sheet. The largest of all my sleep items, this one looks like a luxury -- and it kind of it, don't get me wrong -- but it serves an important purpose. Remember that I said I'm in Florida, and most of the time I'm going to be at 70° or more; using this sheet turns my Klymit Static V mattress into something that feels like an actual bed, meaning that I can use the bivvy sack as a blanket in hotter weather. Plus, it has a pocket to keep my pillow from sliding all over the place, and that's worth it by itself. 
• Vacuum-sealed undewear. 2 pairs of cotton socks, 2 sets of cotton underwear, 1 set thermal underwear for the rare occasions it gets cold (or in case I'm further north). 
• Klymit Static V mattress. By far the most expensive item in this section, and by the far the one most worth the price. A good night's sleep is essential for survival, and this mattress is both incredibly comfortable (even when side-sleeping) and incredible small (it packs down to about the size of a soda can. If you don't have one of these, buy one; if you can't afford it, wait for Black Friday or Cyber Monday and look for bargains. 

I think we have only 1-2 more posts to go of this GHB pocket dump, but I'm not going to pigeonhole myself. See you next week!

Prepper's Pantry: Pickling

I’ve mentioned pickling in earlier posts, such as the ones on vinegar and canning, so it seems appropriate to go into more detail about the supplies and techniques to create these tasty treats at home.

Pickled vegetables can be made in a variety of ways, but for this post I’m going to focus on only two of them, as they are faster and less labor intensive than other methods (one of these methods involves using a salt water brine and several weeks of soaking and monitoring; another involves packing the vegetables in salt and letting them sit for weeks or even months). 

When canning or pickling, always use the freshest produce

Pickling by Hot Water Canning

Refer to my posts about canning equipment and process for the basics, since canning pickled vegetables is handled similarly; this webpage can provide more details. Vegetables used in canning can be preserved whole or reduced in several ways; cucumbers, for example, can be cut into halves, disks, slices, or spears. 

Since one of the major elements used to preserve canned foods is proper acid balance, vinegar is the primary liquid. Cider vinegar is preferred due to its milder flavor, but white vinegar can be used interchangeably.

Prepare the jars as usual, then add spices to taste. I like garlic dill pickles, so I put in each jar:

• A sprig or two fresh dill (1 to 1½ teaspoons dried)
• A couple cloves fresh garlic, slivered (1 to 1½ tablespoons crushed)
• 1 tsp mustard seed or mustard powder
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• Cucumbers

The jars are filled to no less than ½” of the top with heated vinegar, often cut with water and a pinch of sugar, then the lids and rings are added. Hot water process as normal.

Carefully examine produce for bruises or other damage

Refrigerator Pickling

When pickling vegetables in the refrigerator, the same initial process is followed:

• Examine the produce
• Trim, slice, or chop the vegetables
• Add spices
• Fill the jars with vinegar

There are, however, some differences:

• The vinegar doesn’t need to be heated
• Flavored vinegars can more easily be used
• Headspace is less important
• The containers used are more variable (Chinese soup containers are excellent for this purpose)

Once everything is prepared, let the containers sit undisturbed in the refrigerator for 14 to 21 days.

One of my favorite refrigerator pickled dishes is cucumber salad:

• Cucumbers, sliced in half lengthwise then into crescents
• White onion, quartered then sliced
• 1 teaspoon each salt, pepper, and sugar (adjust for taste)
• Balsamic vinegar, cut 1:1 with water

Once all the pickled cucumbers and onions are eaten, the liquid can be reused once or twice as-is, then refreshed with more balsamic vinegar. This makes an excellent side dish, especially in the summer.

The techniques described here can be applied to nearly any vegetable, preserving them and adding more delicious options to your prepper pantry. 

Harvest Season

Yesterday was the first full day of autumn, so we have a couple of months before winter sets in. Autumn around here is the busy season; farmers still have plenty of time to plant crops, but they race the snow to get them harvested. Most of the growers in my area stick with corn and soy beans because we have large processing plants nearby, so the elevator that I work out of is gearing up for two months of frantic activity. Corporate has already handed down our working hours: 7:00 AM to 8:00 PM Monday-Saturday and 11:00AM to 5:00 PM on Sunday. That is, unless a customer asks us to stay later, which we will do. 

I don't deal with the grain side of operations as much as I did in years past, I'm mostly maintenance and "agronomy" (fertilizer and pesticides) now, but I do help the grain guys if they need help. As soon as a field is emptied, our customers want fertilizer applied so it has all winter to leach into the soil and get it prepared for planting. Maintenance is always a concern with 60-year-old equipment and a lack of proper maintenance in years past, and so I'm spending a lot of my time just trying to keep the moving things moving and the static things stationary.  Statutory inspections and testing of some of the hazardous materials equipment takes a lot of time to do right, and I don't skimp on safety. 

All of that is an explanation of why you may notice smaller posts from me for a couple of months, and maybe even a few missed weeks. I'm not quite as old as David, but I'm getting to the point where 80+ hour weeks without a day off leaves me exhausted and unable to do the level of research that I like to put into my writing. Rather than give you poor articles, I'll wait until I can write something that someone can benefit from. I don't want to waste your time or mine by writing drivel, even though I have plenty of practice writing drivel for corporate consumption.

Lean Times Ahead

In case you haven't been paying attention to the "other" news sites, our global supply chain is being stressed by various factors. The Covid-19 mess and some of the government (over-)reactions to it are slowing or stopping the flow of key components to our daily life. 

• Check the inventory at any new car dealership, and you'll see that the lack of certain electronics has curtailed the production of new cars and truck for a year now.  Used pickups are selling for more than they were worth last year because of the lack of new ones coming to market.
• Repair shops are having difficulty getting parts. I deal with a couple of parts stores that have always been able to find bearings and such for the old crap I have to fix at work, and their suppliers are having a hard time getting things. 
• I've noticed a shrinkage in the variety of brands on several store shelves, grocery stores especially. The food aisles are being replaced with sundries and seasonal crap. Even Wal-Mart is showing signs of slow or low supply, with empty shelves becoming more common,
• Every trucking firm within 100 miles is hiring and not getting enough drivers. I hate to say it, but >90% of everything you eat is delivered by truck. No drivers = no food on the store shelves. Time to check the pantry and add a few more day's worth of supplies.
• Fuel prices have gone way up this year. Between the politicians and the storms down south, our fuel infrastructure is not meeting demand and that means limited supplies will carry higher prices. Check your winter fuel supply and top it off ASAP.

On the brighter side of things, I did convince my wife that having a whole-house generator installed would be a good idea. I'm shopping for something that will keep the heat and some of the lights on for at least a couple of weeks of Midwest winter weather; I'll have more to tell as I get closer to spending the money I'm making on overtime right now. Diesel-powered, 10-20 kW, with 300+ gallons of fuel storage is the short list of requirements, but availability is the main concern. 

Winter is always a challenge, so it's time to get your warm clothes out of storage (that's a light jacket for Florida) and make sure you have things as ready as you can for the weather. 

Getting Home And More

The dust has settled and the First 72 Hours have passed. Follow along as I build a long term plan via Prudent Prepping.

A few weeks ago I wrote about several books I share with people who ask serious questions, and a friend asked about Get Home Bags. One of those books talks briefly about setting up a GHB, and that chapter is something that I've tried to follow myself.

A Basic Bag

In Tony Nestor's book Surviving A Disaster, the topic of a plain bag is talked about, starting on page 17.  From the book:

"... As noted during recent disasters, some evacuees had to walk forty miles or more out of their city before supplies were available! [...] Low profile and inconspicuous are key here- avoid the camouflaged, commando-style gear. You want to blend in and look like a student with a book bag and not like a Navy SEAL. Also, avoid the orange packs with 'Survival Gear' stamped on it unless you want those less prepared to know that you are stocked with supplies."

On the following page there is a list of suggested supplies the author has used previously. I'm not going to copy the list, as the items are open to interpretation and your list should be your list, tailored to climate and personal needs. Not to say the list isn't good; it is a little out-of-date on certain items, but use it as a good starting point.

My bag follows most of these guidelines, and that is why I'm really happy the Purple Pack Lady likes colors (here is a link to the purple pack). My bag was a gift, and while it isn't purple or orange, it does look a little tacti-cool. (Please see this post for a really good description of what's in it.) 

https://amzn.to/3kzsaTb

From the Amazon ad:

• Materials: 600D Nylon
• Nylon lining
• Zipper closure
• 17" shoulder drop
• Military tactical backpack size approx.: 9" x 9" x 17" Heavy duty 600D Nylon construction with quiet Paracord pulls and adjustable chest and waist belts
• Lightweight and breathable 20L capacity with 4 zippered compartments, 1 padded velcro rear pouch, and top carry handle
• Molle style webbing, D-rings, and compatible with a hydration pack (not included)
• Fast-release buckles and padded straps helps relieve weight and reduces fatigue when carrying heavy loads
• Great for students, hiking enthusiasts, military, first-responder personnel, or anyone with a passion for the outdoors, everyday use

My one very small quibble is the MOLLE attachment points, which I try to avoid. If I get stuck walking home, I will be in decidedly urban areas and I really REALLY want to be as nondescript as possible. Other than that, this pack has room for everything I want to carry and is small enough to keep my packrat tendencies under control. 

Additional Questions

Last week I posted about buying a freeze-dried assortment from Augason Farms and I was asked "About how many days is this bucket designed to feed people?" From looking at the contents, my opinion is it should be considered a 72 hour supply for 2-4 people, depending on how active everyone is. I also mentioned it was not my first choice, due to the high carbohydrate ingredients. Not that carbs are a deal breaker; I'd just like to see and have some protein added, which I'll do with canned goods if necessary.

More Gear Changes

Due to lack of storage space where I'm at and not much extra room where PPL works, I have to reduce the number of 7 gallon water jugs I have and figure on an alternate way to save water in an emergency. I will keep two, as that is all the room in my closet available, but there is still a need to have more than that for everyone here. Erin has recommended a water bladder that can be filled and kept in a bathtub, so I'm looking at getting the AquaPod Kit 2.0 - Emergency Water Storage Container.

https://amzn.to/2W8Co3u

From the Amazon ad:

• ★ TRUST YOUR WATER! MADE IN USA with BPA-FREE, USFDA APPROVED MATERIALS ★ AquaPodKit liners are constructed of food grade (lldpe) plastic. This material follows and stays within USFDA guidelines and BPA free. AquaPod kit manufactures their liners here in the USA! trust your water!
• ★ liners are constructed of food grade (LLDPE) plastic. This material follows and stays within USFDA guidelines and BPA Free
• ★ PREPARE FOR EMERGENCIES ★ Never be without water in an emergency. During a hurricane or tropical storm, water main breaks and storm surges can interrupt or even contaminate your water supply.
• ★ KEEPS WATER CLEAN ★ Water stored in an open bathtub with dirt, soap film, and exposure to debris will spoil and become useless. Aquapod kit will keep water fresh for up to 8 weeks, depending on humidity and temperature conditions.
• ★ 100% RECYCLABLE ★ NO need to cut any parts off water storage bag - used reservoirs may be recycled into many types of new products. Aqua pod kit is disposable and recyclable - Aqua Pod Kit is the only American Bath Tub Bladder to offers replacement liners. Our reservoirs have a positive impact on the environment. The flexible reservoir requires less space for shipping and smaller shipments require less fuel.

Unfortunately, due to the series of natural disasters in the East and Midwest, Amazon is Sold Out with no resupply date available. I will be hanging on to my existing jugs for the time being, just not filling them; when empty they stack up and can be wedged into corners easily. 

Recap and Takeaway

• Please don't look at my posts as the only way to build a bag. Our other authors have brilliant ideas and different ways to arrive at a Good Bag. Read all of the posts available and then go from there!
• Do ask questions, as what seems obvious to others may not be so obvious to you. A slightly different point of view can open eyes and minds.
• Be adaptable. Getting stuck in a rut may keep you from changing directions when the time comes.
• Nothing was purchased this week, but a water storage bladder is going on my Amazon Watch List.

* * *

Just a reminder: if you plan on buying anything through Amazon, please consider using our referral link. When you do, a portion of the sale comes back here to help keep this site running!

If you have comments, suggestions or corrections, please post them so we all can learn. And remember, Some Is Always Better Than None!

NOTE: All items tested were purchased by me. No products have been loaned in exchange for a favorable review. Any items sent to me for T&E will be listed as such. Suck it Feds.

Erin's New GHB, part 5: First Out of the Main

Not actually Erin.

Picture by KJ Photography

& is used with permission.

Since other, smaller pockets have been more than enough to take up an entire blog post, I knew I wouldn't be able to fit the entire Main Pocket into a single article. Instead I'm going to break it down into sections, starting with the first things I'll grab once my shelter is up. 

You may recall that in my post about the Quick Access Pouch I explained that it was also available separately. Guess how I know this?

https://amzn.to/3yS6IgY

Yes, I liked it so much that I bought another one, and I used it to keep a lot of small items together. So let's see what I have in that pouch or next to it:

Yes, that picture is blurry. I didn't realize it at the time, and at this point I've already put everything away, so you're just going to have to deal with it. 

Top Row, Left to Right:

• Eton FRX2 Hand Turbine AM/FM Weather Radio with Smartphone Charger. I've talked about previous versions of this item in older posts, and I continue to love it because it's a flashlight/radio/battery bank that can be charged with a hand crank or an integral solar panel. 
• Earbud headphones, because the Eton has a headset jack. 
• Cable with a USB "in" port on one end and multiple jacks on the other hand, so I can charge a variety of things. 
• An old iPhone charging cube, because the Eton also charges from a wall socket and that's the smallest charging device I could find. 
• Halo pocket power charger, because why not have a lightweight power bank?
• They're all sitting on a dry bag. 
• Steel cup with a lid. More on that below. 
• Knot cards for the Knotbone and Figure 9 Carabiner, as well as a "How to tie important knots" card because sometimes I forget how to tie hitches if I haven't practiced. 
• Coughlan's survival candle, because candles are a slow and efficient open flame. If you can only light one thing with a match... light a candle. 
• Wire survival saw. I know it's a gimmick, but I got it for free and it weighs basically nothing and takes up little space. If nothing else it'll be good for processing kindling. 

Let's take a closer look at the steel cup. 

Inside the cup is a vacuum-sealed collection of foods, mostly soups and powdered drinks. It's been so long since I sealed it that I can't recall what's inside. I believe the item which says "Anabolic Laboratories" is some kind of energy sports drink. 

There's also a lid, a foldable spork, a P-51 style can opener with bottle opener cutouts, and... Knotbones. Yes, I know it doesn't make a lot of sense; I put them in there because it's a small space and could find them more easily. easily. Look, what's important is that I know where things are, okay?

As for what a Knotbone is: it's been discontinued so I can't link to it, but the best way to describe it is "A plastic tool that gives you various ways of quickly attaching two or more paracord ropes to each other." I think it's neat. 

Bottom Row, Left to Right:

• Signal mirror and whistle with float. Obligatory. 
• Pocket bellows, aka "a hollowed out collapsible antenna without an end cap." Useful for a variety of purposes: blowing a fire, improvised snorkel, drinking straw. 
• Firebox Nano Deluxe. More on that below. 
• Plasma lighter with flip-up lid. I don't recall where I bought it. 
• Bic lighter. Also obligatory. 
• Roll of duct tape. 
• Variety of fire fuels, including 3 Wetfire cubes, 2 Esbit fuel cubes, a length of waxed jute, and a guitar pick (it'll burn as easily as a corn chip). 

I'm a big fan of the original Firebox, and the Firebox Nano brings that same level of performance into a pocket-sized package. It burns biofuel (sticks, wood shavings, pine cones, etc) easily and comes with a plate for efficient use of fuel tabs. 

The X-Case holds it in its folded configurations, and also serves as a base to catch ash and steady the stove. 

The carbon felt can be used as a windscreen, ash catcher, or hot pad. 

You can buy the entire kit (except for the fuel plate, sold separately) for $50 with free shipping from Amazon and I cannot recommend it highly enough. 

Here's a video of the entire setup in action:

So now I have a fire going to keep me warm, boil water, and cook my food. What's next? I think it's time for sleep.  See you next week!

Cartridge Conversion

Returning to my series on reloading, another concept in this area is modifying one cartridge case into another chambering, perhaps even a brand new one.

If the result is a brand new case design, it’s called wildcatting. Many commercial cartridges we know today started their lives as wildcats, including the .22-250 Remington, 7 mm-08 Remington, .300 Blackout, and others. In some instances, the wildcat cartridge was developed in cooperation with commercial industry, such as the .357 Magnum, .44 Magnum, .221 Fireball, and more.

The conversion process can be fairly simple, or it can be considerably more complex. It may involve necking the parent case up or down for a different diameter projectile, moving the shoulder forward or back, changing shoulder angle, adjusting case taper, trimming case length, modifying rim dimensions, or any combination of these steps. A good general guide can be found here.

L-R: Original .223 case, resized case, cut and
deburred .300 Blackout case (streaks are from case lube)

I’ll start with one of the simpler conversions, .223 Remington* to .300 Blackout. 

1) Sort, deprime, and clean the brass.

2) Resize the case. To start this step, I apply a dab of case lube to the first case, then run it into a .300 Blackout sizing die.  This can take some force, so I use an O-Frame press as they’re stronger. 

Not every case needs to be lubed; I’ve found I only need to apply it every three to five cases with carbide dies.

3) Once the cases have been run through the .300 Blackout dies, they need to be rough cut slightly oversize. I use a small chop saw I bought at Harbor Freight.  There are jigs available to hold and position the cases on the saw bed (like this one or this one), but I made my own out of some scrap wood and a couple of brass screws. More recently, I 3-D printed a trim jig for more precision.

4) After the cases have been rough cut, they are trimmed to final length. Again, there are several different tools available for this step. I like the Lee Precision trimmer that can be used with my drill press, and each cartridge has its own Case Length Gauge and Shell Holder.

5) The final step at this stage is deburring and chamfering the case mouth. I use a classic RCBS hand deburring tool. Once this is done I clean the cases in a vibratory tumbler with corn cob media to remove the lubricant and any brass shavings.

6) In this particular conversion, there’s an optional step that can be done before sizing; in other conversions, it’s an absolute necessity. It’s called annealing. Brass work-hardens and becomes brittle with use, and case conversion can heavily work the brass. Annealing reduces the chance of cases splitting during the conversion process and can also increase case life as well.

For those interested, there’s a discussion in the Reloading section on AR15.com on making your own DIY Annealing machine.  I haven’t done this yet, but it’s on my list.

Once the brass is converted to .300 Blackout, it can be shot and reloaded multiple times.  If and when the case finally fails, it’s usually due to the case neck or mouth splitting due to work hardening. At that point, the brass can be discarded, or it can be trimmed and sized further to be used in .380 ACP handguns.

Converting .223 Remington to .300 Blackout is one of the more simple and straight forward case conversion. A much more involved one is converting 24 Gauge Magtech Brass Shotshells to .577/450 Martini–Henry; here is a good video of the process.

That conversion requires multiple sizing and annealing steps due to the considerably more significant changing of dimensions and therefore increased work hardening of the brass.

For other conversions, it may be necessary to redimension the case rim or extractor groove.  This is best done on a lathe as the amount of material to be removed is precise, and if the rim needs to be made thinner, material is generally removed from the inside of the rim, by which I mean the portion of the rim opposite the case head.

Obviously there’s much more to this topic then I can cover here.  If the idea of converting one cartridge case to another interests you, there are a number of resources available both in print and online. The two I reference the most are Cartridges of the World and The Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions.

Case conversion is an excellent way to not only get some older firearms shooting again, but is also a great way to learn more about the family relationship between some otherwise very different cartridges.

Have fun, and safe shooting!

* 5.56mm cases can also be used, but they have two additional concerns. The first is that the primers may be crimped in place, and removing the crimping is an extra step. The other has to do with case wall thickness: since the case length is trimmed back significantly, case wall thickness may become an issue when the new case neck is formed. This can increase neck tension which can lead to increased pressures when firing.